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    Solid Rear Tires or Air Filled?

    I've been thinking about getting solid rubber rear tires on my manual wheelchair. The air filled ones are good when inflated to the max, but they really lose a couple lbs. of air pressure over a couple of weeks and really make it difficult to push and lock the wheels. I'm tired of going to the gas station to inflate the tires every couple of weeks and it's a pain to have ask someone to inflate my tires with a hand pump I have at the house. Any suggestions or personal experiences with this? Thanks.

    #2
    Originally posted by smokey
    I've been thinking about getting solid rubber rear tires on my manual wheelchair. The air filled ones are good when inflated to the max, but they really lose a couple lbs. of air pressure over a couple of weeks and really make it difficult to push and lock the wheels. I'm tired of going to the gas station to inflate the tires every couple of weeks and it's a pain to have ask someone to inflate my tires with a hand pump I have at the house. Any suggestions or personal experiences with this? Thanks.
    solids like kik tires, dont hold a brake well at all......just get a portable air pump
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

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      #3
      I run KIK Makos. I adjust my brakes about every 2-3 months. Was just thinking back and I am right at 2 months now and still can't roll-thru my brakes(that is when I re-adjust). I adjust them tight as crap at first, give me longer between adjustments. My brakes hold fine.
      "a T10, who'd Rather be ridin'; than rollin'"

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        #4
        Also run solid kik tyres and I far prefer them to pneumatics. No flats from punctures or getting soft if I forget to pump. Also contant pushing resistance is nice whereas air tyres are a cycle from good to bad.
        _____oOo_____
        Phil C6
        "If you can't explain it to me in less than 10 seconds, it's probably not worth knowing anyway..." - Calvin

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          #5
          Yup I also have solid kick tires as I don't want to deal with a flat while I'm out somewhere, but I could use some tips on adjusting the brakes. I have a Qickie Ti, and I'm not mechanically inclined so the tightening the breaks gets kinda confusing, are there instructions with pictures for this anywhere?
          De Omnibus Dubitandum

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            #6
            I also run solid tires. Much prefer to air.

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              #7
              When you travel in the outdoor places that I frequent, you can only use solid.
              "It is every man's obligation to put back into the world at least the equivalent of what he takes out of it. Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value." - Albert Einstein

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                #8
                I used to think that solid tires were really not as performant than inflated high pressure ones, and I was right until the Kik Makos (Makos is important here, since it is their new generation of high resilience polymer). I was using only Continental indoor saalsport ($$ and they don't last since made primarly for indoor sports) inflated to around 120 psi, and I could see the difference with using Primo tires at 100 psi. So I decided to call the guy from Kik and told him I was tired of flat tires, inflating and so on but that I did not think his tires were a good enough replacement. He then asked me what kind of feeling and performance I wanted, I said I wanted the feel and performance of my Conti at 120 psi. He told me give me 2 days and I will manufacture some with thoses specs just for you and I will replace them with a different formula until you are satisfied. The first pair was right on, still have them on my chair with no signs of much wearing after more than a year, this is the best thing I could have done. As for the brake adjustments, I solved that problem just before getting the Makos by installing D's Locks hub brakes on my chair, never had to adjust anything in close to 2 years.
                Pharmacist, C4-5 injury but functional C6 (no triceps/flexors)

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Myc0
                  Yup I also have solid kick tires as I don't want to deal with a flat while I'm out somewhere, but I could use some tips on adjusting the brakes. I have a Qickie Ti, and I'm not mechanically inclined so the tightening the breaks gets kinda confusing, are there instructions with pictures for this anywhere?
                  Myc0 - found this owners manual at www.sunrisemedical.com.
                  link

                  At the bottom, where it lists page numbers, 1 (1 of 23) change the first "1" to "34" and hit return, it will then read 34 (18 to 23) .(brochure page numbers do not add up to the pdf numbers)

                  The brake adjustment instructions, such as they are, are posted there with pics.
                  "a T10, who'd Rather be ridin'; than rollin'"

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                    #10
                    i use scissor brakes undeer my seat and no matter how tight i got them, the dam chair moved bad while transferring, not good. this was probably 5 years ago. are the makos better now......also when the tire was wet the breaks were totaly worthless, they didnt have much tread
                    Bike-on.com rep
                    John@bike-on.com
                    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                    sponsored handcycle racer

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                      #11
                      fuentejps, Makos are much better than they were performance wise (old ones were sluggish and added resistance to rolling) but I admit that those I chose are very hard, since I wanted very little resistance, and I can make a guess that regular brakes would probably be hard to adjust (would probably be very hard to lock for a good grip, or easy with little grip), just a guess, I could be wrong. The thread is quite good on mine and it seems like those tires are going to last forever, obviously it is because they are hard, and hard means more slippery when wet or frozen, living in Montreal here . I don't know why you care so much about the thread though since as a quad, no matter how active we are, in winter we all try to avoid snow as much as possible. I am more than willing to sacrifice a bit of traction on snow or ice for the added performance indoor where I am most of the time in winter. Try D's Locks you all, it solves a lot of problems (I have no connection with the company based in California).
                      Pharmacist, C4-5 injury but functional C6 (no triceps/flexors)

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by JGNI
                        I don't know why you care so much about the thread though since as a quad, no matter how active we are, in winter we all try to avoid snow as much as possible. I am more than willing to sacrifice a bit of traction on snow or ice for the added performance indoor where I am most of the time in winter. Try D's Locks you all, it solves a lot of problems (I have no connection with the company based in California).
                        well winter or not i still have to go to work and transfer in/out of my car multiple times during the day. then push throught the parking lots, lol. tread realy helps
                        Bike-on.com rep
                        John@bike-on.com
                        c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                        sponsored handcycle racer

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by fuentejps
                          well winter or not i still have to go to work and transfer in/out of my car multiple times during the day. then push throught the parking lots, lol. tread realy helps
                          Well, working full time too and doing the same, having a different opinion though
                          Pharmacist, C4-5 injury but functional C6 (no triceps/flexors)

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by JGNI
                            Well, working full time too and doing the same, having a different opinion though
                            my biggest reason for tread is that it holds my brakes better. i put alot of stress on those brakes getting out of the car. im very much a minimalnist w/ my chair, those d's locks look cool but i dont like extra hardware.
                            Bike-on.com rep
                            John@bike-on.com
                            c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                            sponsored handcycle racer

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by fuentejps
                              my biggest reason for tread is that it holds my brakes better. i put alot of stress on those brakes getting out of the car. im very much a minimalnist w/ my chair, those d's locks look cool but i dont like extra hardware.
                              I knew it had to do more with the brakes, choice of tires should be made on another reason than brakes, no? I will not give up, I am a minimalist too, having no conventional brakes on mine and replacing them with another kind is not adding extra hardware. Yes, the setup could maybe add a pound to the chair but we all know it is not the weight of the chair (to some extent) but how it is set up. Sorry fuentejps, I thought you were strong enough to lift an extra pound Just kidding...
                              Pharmacist, C4-5 injury but functional C6 (no triceps/flexors)

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