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    New Chair measurements help

    Did the seating clinic for my new chair hoping to get a better fit on my new chair.

    Today my chair came its a Ti ZRA as luck will have it, the chair is not put together right, scissor locks mounted backwards the angles to the seat back is crooked and seems off. I also think the foot rest is not right.
    Anyway is there a place I can go to read up on how to adjust the chair to my body. The manual just tells one how to adjust not why. I would also like to know how to adjust my center of gravity.

    Thanks for any help. I'm lucky enough that I can roll around with my old chair fixing the new one

    #2
    Did you order through Sportaid or Bike-on? Generally it is a DME's (the company who orders the chair on your behalf) responsibility for setting up your chair properly, but I'm not sure who other than you would be responsible for making the adjustments if you just ordered online.
    That said, an occupational therapist who holds "seating clinics" should be able to take your measurements and figure out exactly how your chair should be setup. I'm not sure what all is available to you in Ohio, but in Maryland I was able to search "seating clinic" and found one near my home and my insurance paid for the visit (minus the co-pay). The OT asked questions about what my life is like (work, fun, hobbies, etc.) and what I desired from a chair then took measurements both in my current chair and then sitting unsupported. I knew I wanted a Ti ZRA (which I subsequently got and LOVE) along with some personal preferences.
    After the examination, she wrote up a "prescription" that outlined what height my castors should be, what type, size, and height of back rest I should buy, the appropriate amount of dump, and so on. I took that prescription to my DME who then ordered from TiLite and delivered the chair. Like always, there are finishing touches I had to do on my own like adjusting the height of the footplate and when I got new wheels I had to move the brakes, but for anything very off I had the DME to make the adjustment.
    Feel free to ask any questions.

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      #3
      Ask questions on here and put a pic of the chair. With you in it from side (with your arms straight down) and front. Pic of you in your old chair might help too.

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        #4
        Thanks for the responses. Last night I went through switching the scissor locks so they are on the right side easy to adjust not the way they had them. I also adjusted the seat back which was crooked. One side was 1/2 higher than other side plus angles on each mount where also off. I feel the chair might be too high and the center of gravity makes it harder to pop a wheelie. I'm holding off doing much more until after I hear what the DME says about the wrong chair ordered. I wanted a v front and the sent a standard.
        Any pointers on adjusting CG and height adjustments just to have the right clearance?

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          #5
          Thee are several ways to adjust the COG on a ZRA. Not sure of your level as your bio says c7 and T6/7/8. Normally for those T/6and above, the dump should be around four inches. That keeps you in the chair while leaning forward and better ability to push. Back angle for me is 92o with 14.5" back height using a Ride cushion.

          Any adjustment to cog or dump will need to have rear toe-in-out adjusted and ensure front casters rest 90o to the floor. A good way of determining cog is to let your arms hang normally. the fingertip should be approx. 1/2 way between on the rear axle release button and even with the button or a bit forward as a starting point. When pushing, you don't want your shoulders raising and lowering much, more of an even push.

          If it turns fast enough for your likes, to get an easier wheelie it may just be a matter of tilting the back angle back a couple degrees. If it feels ackward, move the rear wheels forward just a tad and tilt the back angle forward a couple degrees. If you need to move the rear wheels forward, it just takes loosening the clamps that hold the rear wheel assembly to the frame and moving forward then ensuring the front casters are 90o to the floor. It's very important both sides of the assembly are even. I do that by measuring from the back or from a mark I make with a felt pen before adjusting... At least that was the way it was on my first ZRA. Once I got mine dialed in with the ZRA, my next chair (TR) had minimal adjustments.

          The new techs know squat about adjusting a chair to fit the person. I'm saddened knowing a DME sends out a chair and not ensuring it fits the person, unfortunately not surprised though.

          Photos with hands on wheels like pushing and hanging down would help. You will want to use a short level ensuring the footrests are even (placed on footrest) and a square for toe-in-out. I believe there should be a flat edge on the end of the camber bar. The square will help lining up the Toe in-out using it. I've spent long hours changing my chair around when I first got it. I think first I would check for dump and if it's to your liking, any change entails ensuring the front casters are 90o. If the dump angle is okay, next I would check where my fingertips aiign with the rear wheel, if okay would then know it is just a matter of moving the back angle forward or backward a couple degrees. For me I know a 4" dump with 92o back angle is my sweet spot.

          The easiest change is the back angle and height of the backrest. The other adjustments are going to require the front casters are 90o to the floor and rear toe in-out is correct.

          Photos with hands on wheels like pushing and hanging down would help. Would help knowing if you have camber built in or not.

          When I first get a chair, I mark the original adjustment points with a felt pen. Then I know if I need to move something I can duplicate the measurement on the other side or if I want to start over, I have the points marked.
          Last edited by Patrick Madsen; 14 Jan 2021, 5:17 PM.

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            #6
            Patrick great information. I'm waiting on what they are going to do about the wrong chair before I do anymore messing around since if they replace the frame I will need to do everything again.
            I have to say after 7 years in a chair its finally nice to have another chair that I can work on and still be able to move around.

            The new chair is a zero camber with uni-tine front casters. I feel like I need to lower this chair maybe a 1/2 since the foot rest is high off the ground and I still think I need to raise the foot rest maybe 1/4 inch. Again if I get the replacement frame I can get this all change by them.

            Keep you posted
            Last edited by cfx; 16 Jan 2021, 8:04 PM.

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              #7
              Reason for "edit": I apologize! I vented my frusration over Covid and all hoops required for new chairs now-a-days!
              To late for this now: never accept new chair til you actually try it on for fit and as well as fit your daily routine.
              Last new chair I got via big national company that bought my old DME's shop was setup wrong. With hassel I'd went though with Mama's new chair 2 weeks before mine arrivied I called old DME(He had become manufacture's regional company rep) to be at shop on my pickup date. Sure enoungh many items where not right. Big company let him do adjustments so it fit me and moved seating controls so I could use. He also done adjustments on Mama's chair and reprograming drives for her.
              "Good Luck!"
              Mama and I been putting off going Seating Clinic for required fitting for new chairs now for nearly year due to Covid stuff. Mama is using off-shelf group 2 basic chair we bought to make due, didn't have clue be this long, her old primary was toast as well as old backup chair. My primary had it hauled off, pools of oil from gear/motors. Done replaced joystick once on my old backup that's now daily chair. I'm getting bit nervous been getting "Error" when go up ramp into van and my oyther backup chair to weak make up ramp, it's 25 years old.

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