Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Stricker Lipo Smart convulsing violently while braking

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by Gordy1 View Post
    Well that’s got to be easier to fix than electronics!

    I’d be putting oil on all the cables and moving brake mechanisms, keeping it away from the disc and brake pads.

    Why do they have both brakes? Presumably one for each of the levers on the handlebars, as a safety/redundancy thing. And that’s just carried over to the quad set-up.
    The two breaks work together great that way if you’re disc break were to fail you have a back up break Caliper brakes themselves never work great. On my striker I keep my caliper brake set a little slack so that the disc break is always the main break
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

    Comment


    • #17

      yesterday we had a great ride. That is with the very northern tip of Pine Island looking into the gulf of Mexico Click image for larger version  Name:	45021CC3-A7FE-43EC-9B8B-A1A638ACBAE5.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	206.7 KB ID:	2897379
      Bike-on.com rep
      John@bike-on.com
      c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
      sponsored handcycle racer

      Comment


      • #18
        Sure is great to hear John. You're looking great in the Sun rather than snow. Good move. Will have to checkout the touring model and perhaps sell the Lipo. I must say, in the 44-45 years I've been riding, this Srticker is the most efficient attachable and probably including my many recumbents I've had..

        Thanks for straightening out the problem. Really surprised though it's lurching so much it's taking the paint off his bike. I'd still like to see a photo of it mounted. I have a suspicion the front wheel may be off the 90o it needs to be; causing even worse lurching. Maybe not, mine never did that. Why do you think the front wheel froze up like it did on his second ride?

        Comment


        • #19
          Sure is great to hear John. You're looking great in the Sun rather than snow. Good move. Will have to checkout the touring model and perhaps ell the Lipo. I must say, in the 44-45 years I've been riding, this Srticker is the most efficient attachable and probably including my recumbent I've had..

          Thanks for straightening out the problem. Really surprised though it's lurching so much it's taking the paint off his bike. I'd still like to see a photo of it mounted. I have a suspicion the front wheel may be off the 90o it needs to be; causing even worse lurching. Maybe not, mine never did that.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
            Sure is great to hear John. You're looking great in the Sun rather than snow. Good move. Will have to checkout the touring model and perhaps sell the Lipo. I must say, in the 44-45 years I've been riding, this Srticker is the most efficient attachable and probably including my many recumbents I've had..

            Thanks for straightening out the problem. Really surprised though it's lurching so much it's taking the paint off his bike. I'd still like to see a photo of it mounted. I have a suspicion the front wheel may be off the 90o it needs to be; causing even worse lurching. Maybe not, mine never did that. Why do you think the front wheel froze up like it did on his second ride?
            Hey Pat but we have to remember is the reverse brake works on a one-way bearing and if it really gets slammed on hard or if someone were to roll backwards on a really big hill they could jam the teeth of the one-way bearing a little bit I’ve had it happen once or twice but I was able to lock the brake cam lever loose to free it up

            as for the touring model it was a custom build that I had done for myself not anything that I offer as in stock but that’s the great thing about Stryker if someone doesn’t want mind waiting three or four months I can have anything custom built but most people want their bike like yesterday The para smart that you have dollar for dollar is really your best bet I wanted something that I could do 50 or 60 miles with since I have so much room to roam down here

            hey Emmett I sent you an email as well send me a couple pictures of you and your Apex attached to the Stryker let me take a look at it
            Bike-on.com rep
            John@bike-on.com
            c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
            sponsored handcycle racer

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
              Sure is great to hear John. You're looking great in the Sun rather than snow. Good move. Will have to checkout the touring model and perhaps ell the Lipo. I must say, in the 44-45 years I've been riding, this Srticker is the most efficient attachable and probably including my recumbent I've had..

              Thanks for straightening out the problem. Really surprised though it's lurching so much it's taking the paint off his bike. I'd still like to see a photo of it mounted. I have a suspicion the front wheel may be off the 90o it needs to be; causing even worse lurching. Maybe not, mine never did that.
              and thank you Pat yes moving to Florida has been one of the best moves of our lives it’s amazing down here and being able to ride and train every single day and the fact that the sunshine’s pretty much every day as well it’s been a real game changer. So I’ll say anyone thinking about moving to Florida I highly recommend it
              Bike-on.com rep
              John@bike-on.com
              c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
              sponsored handcycle racer

              Comment


              • #22
                I'm reluctant to think that this is actually the brakes, and certainly not the motor at this point. I rode about 600 miles last summer and fall, and didn't really experience this at all. Now, it seems to be happening constantly. Someone mentioned that all the connections need to be really tight. As a result I took off the frame protectors from my wheelchair so that I'd get a better connection. What I realized is that last winter I got a Motion Composites Apex chair, and it has a huge tube up front where this connects, with a big hunk of plastic glued to it, and worse yet on the inside part of the tube it has a thick foam pad glued in place. I'm now thinking that the foam pad, and maybe the plastic too, are creating a really loose connection between the chair and the hand cycle that is leading to this problem. Because of the plastic, the tube is also really oversized and barely fits in the clamp. Would that make sense? If so, I think I'm SOL, as I have cranked down the connectors as much as my quad arms can bear, and I even had my sister try to tighten them more. If these things are loose, they're never going to be tight.

                I tried to take the best photos I could to show this. Not the best amateur photographer at this point.
                Attached Files
                Last edited by ejl10; 05-02-2020, 07:29 PM.
                C5/6 complete (maybe) circa June 2018

                Comment


                • #23
                  I really don’t think that’s doing it I have several customers that I’ve sold both Apex chairs and Stryker’s to and they’re not having any issue. I definitely agree with taking off the frame protectors you shouldn’t have anything between your clamps in the tube have you had it back on the road since you did that
                  as I mentioned above I get the same brake bounce occasionally myself and I’m using a titanium frame chair
                  give me a call on my cell will be a lot easier to troubleshoot this for you then going back-and-forth on here
                  Bike-on.com rep
                  John@bike-on.com
                  c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                  sponsored handcycle racer

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hi everyone, thanks for all the ideas. Unfortunately, we haven't been able to figure this out yet. The good news, is that yesterday I was able to get a video of the problem in action. The video also gets a little bit of a better view of the geometry that I have set up. I'd appreciate any thoughts! I'm especially nervous that this thing is incompatible with my Apex wheelchair because of its unique design on the front tubing.

                    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZnI...w?usp=drivesdk
                    C5/6 complete (maybe) circa June 2018

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Thanks, that made a big difference. Your front end is too far out in front, front wheel not at 90o, cranks set too high up. The attachment arms should be as low as they can go to the frame. Mine are at the top of the caster housing. Try to get as compact as you can.

                      First lower the attachment arms to just above the housing. Next use square to set the front angle at 90o by using the square mid point of front hub. The tire/pavement point should be there.Lower the cranks a couple inches at least to get better use of your lats and triceps you have left. Your cranks are too far forward seeing your shoulders move forward in the 9 O'clock position. Try to get so forward position the elbows are just a bit cocked but upper body not rocking back and forth.!2 position shows cranks are too high because the shoulders are lifting up. 6 o'clock the shoulders should be down and forearms just a bit lower than level. Hope that makes sense.

                      Main thing is to pull the bike closer, 90o front end, lower the attachment arms low as they can go. If you can send a video of you cranking from the side while riding would help.

                      when braking, try to brake with the cranks around the 6 o'clock position, that gives you more control of the bike and may help with the skidding. I'd try that first before doing the changes suggested.

                      The photo is while I was setting up mine. I lowered the attachment arms lower and tilted the front end a bit farther out to reach 90o mid point front hub after seeing the photo. That brought the cranks a bit closer too.
                      Last edited by Patrick Madsen; 05-20-2020, 03:13 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I have the Stricker quad version and exactly the same thing happened when I drove down a hill at the beginning. I drove it maybe 3 or 4 miles before it happened. It was scary but it never happened again. I never changed or did anything different. It just happened one time and that was it. Good luck finding out what it is. If you ever do please post it.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Stopping your video at a different spot, the front wheel angle doesn't look too bad but still feel the bike is too far out. the box is almost between my knees. Pull it in adjust the cranks accordingly.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by ejl10 View Post
                            hi everyone, thanks for all the ideas. Unfortunately, we haven't been able to figure this out yet. The good news, is that yesterday i was able to get a video of the problem in action. The video also gets a little bit of a better view of the geometry that i have set up. I'd appreciate any thoughts! I'm especially nervous that this thing is incompatible with my apex wheelchair because of its unique design on the front tubing.

                            https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zni...w?usp=drivesdk
                            haven't heard back from you on this emmett. Like i said much easier for me to troubleshoot directly. Two things your casters are too high and as pat mentioned your clamps should always be right above the caster housing that's my preferred set up as well. And one other thing i will tell you even mine bounces a bit when you pull your break from the top you will notice that it will not bounce when you push under to break and feathering the break helps a good deal
                            Bike-on.com rep
                            John@bike-on.com
                            c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                            sponsored handcycle racer

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              My preffered setup for all quad bikes
                              Attached Files
                              Bike-on.com rep
                              John@bike-on.com
                              c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                              sponsored handcycle racer

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X