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Stricker Lipo Smart convulsing violently while braking

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  • Stricker Lipo Smart convulsing violently while braking

    I took my Lipo Smart handcycle out for its first ride of the year yesterday. Pretty quickly I noticed that it was jerking when I braked hard, but I tried to manage it by braking more gently and continued to ride. It's pretty hilly in this area, so I needed to do a lot of braking on any of the downhill areas. By the end of my eight or so miles, I couldn't brake at all without the bike jerking violently. It felt like a horribly out of control anti-lock brake system or something similar. Absolutely no way to slow down the bike without convulsing to a complete stop. The handcycle tire was mostly flat by the end of the trip because it had been bucking so hard up and then back into the pavement, and flakes of paint actually came off of the Lipo for the same reason. It was downright dangerous to ride.

    Anyone familiar with this hand cycle that can shed some light onto what's happening and how I can fix it? I'm away from home right now trying to steer clear of the pandemic back in Boston, and without the owner's manual. Definitely can't ride this thing again until I fix the problem, and unfortunately this is the only source of exercise I have with me!
    C5/6 complete (maybe) circa June 2018

  • #2
    Get ahold of John Squires at Bike-on.com I hope I spelled his name correctly but anyway he can probably help you.

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    • #3
      Was everything tight on the bike and attachment to chair tight? Did it happen with both the caliper and disc brake.? If the caliper brake, the rims are scummy and need a bit of cleaner or steel wool to clean up. If all is tight and properly aligned, it may be the brake pads just need to be broken in after sitting over winter or changed out if they got hard due to cold winter conditions.

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      • #4
        Are the rotors shiny?
        I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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        • #5
          The bike and chair are in tip-top shape, as both of them are less than a year old and have seen relatively little use during that year. I'm not sure which brake is causing it, if either. Given the huge amount of force in the convulsions and the sometimes very low speeds it's happening at, it feels entirely possible that the motor assist is kicking in while braking, rather than this being an issue of warped discs or failing brake pads.

          I aired up the tire, which had been beaten up during the ride and was sitting at just about 10psi. It certainly lost a lot of pressure during the ride, but may have been running low to begin with vs. the recommended 50-70. Not sure how that would cause this kind of convulsion, but I'm going to give it another try this afternoon and hope for the best.
          ​​​
          C5/6 complete (maybe) circa June 2018

          Comment


          • #6
            IF all is tight and aligned correctly. I'd try one brake lever at a time and see which if any are causing it. May also want to try unplugging each termini going to the control box one at a time and replugging to see if that may reset. When was last time you took out the battery and. slipped back on. That should reset the electronics. Hope it went better this ride.

            I seem to be riding the recumbent less and less and the Stricker more and more.

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            • #7
              I don’t have experience with a Stricker, but if you think it’s the motor kicking in while braking, are you able to use the Stricker without the battery/motor being on (or with the battery removed), so you can test whether there is a problem with the brakes (one at a time, then both together)?

              If the brakes are ok, then I’d be checking the connections between the brakes and the controller. (I’m assuming that the use of a brake should disconnect the motor power, which is what happens on the Firefly, for example). If a cable is disconnected (or there is a loose connection) then it would (in theory) be possible for the motor to kick in while braking. And once the convulsing starts, a loose connection can connect/disconnect quickly with the convulsions.

              And definitely try Patrick M’s suggestions...he knows his stuff! (And I wouldn’t know how to reset a Stricker).
              Gordon, father of son who became t6 paraplegic at the age of 4 in 2007 as a result of surgery to remove a spinal tumour.

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              • #8
                Welp, it's officially weird now. Now that you mention it, I tried it the other day with the battery disconnected and it's still had the same problem. So it's got to be the brakes. This afternoon I took it out for a test ride, and for the first half mile on flat ground everything felt fine. I braked hard a few times but no convulsions. Then I got to the big hill, and gave it a good hard brake. Seemed to brake pretty smoothly at first, but as I slowed down it started bucking again. And then the very unexpected happened. I came to a stop, still facing downhill on a pretty steep hill, and absolutely could not get the wheel to turn again. It was frozen up solid. I tried everything I could think of, including once again disabling the battery, but it was just locked up. My sister was out riding with me, and she tried too but couldn't get anyting to move. Fortunately, we were still pretty close to home so she went back and got the van and returned to pick me up. She was able to muscle it into the trunk, and we headed home. Then the weird got weirder. She went to take it out and the wheel turned just fine, like nothing had ever happened. I'm now convinced it's the disc brake locking up. But I have no idea why.

                Incidentally, this is set up for a quad so the only braking action comes from pulling back on the handles. That brakes both the disc/rotor and the pads along the rim (curious aside.. does anyone know why it doesn't use a disc brake exclusively?). So it's a little tough to try to use them independently - it would involve disconnecting one of the cables. I can do it, but it would be awesome if I don't have to since they're tuned pretty well and I'm sure I'd never get them back as good as they are.
                C5/6 complete (maybe) circa June 2018

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                • #9
                  Well that’s got to be easier to fix than electronics!

                  I’d be putting oil on all the cables and moving brake mechanisms, keeping it away from the disc and brake pads.

                  Why do they have both brakes? Presumably one for each of the levers on the handlebars, as a safety/redundancy thing. And that’s just carried over to the quad set-up.
                  Gordon, father of son who became t6 paraplegic at the age of 4 in 2007 as a result of surgery to remove a spinal tumour.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ah, that could definitely be it. I probably would have opted for a second disc brake on the other side rather than introducing the complexity of a totally different braking system, but I'm no engineer and they didn't ask me anyway!
                    C5/6 complete (maybe) circa June 2018

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                    • #11
                      Time to write whomever you bought it from with a CC to Stricker themselves. If just a year old, it may still be under warranty.
                      I hate a person has to go thru the dealer rather than drectly to the manufactuer. Most dealers know less than we do regarding this type of equipment.

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                      • #12
                        most of the time the disc brake is the usual active brake, and the caliper brake is parking one. Are you sure they need to work together ? (I mean, something may be wrong in the mounting) Two brakes as different as these may be difficult to synchronize.
                        If I were you, I would try to remove the caliper's cable. obviously it would show you which brake needs a fix, but anyway I think the disk may have enough power alone to stop you. And if no, it is always possible to go to hydraulic with the same rotor.
                        I would be curious to know how the device "from a brake lever to a coaster brake" works ? As a quad, I had to develop and manufacture my own idea…
                        C6-7 since mid 2002, no hand control nor triceps.
                        my website & my job (in France): Accessibility advisor www.acceslibre.eu
                        Also working on a French research about Peer counseling and Empowerment.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Before you start tearing into anything, I suggest you contact John, Probably whom you bought it from, or the person you bought it from. You do not want to risk voiding the warranty on the bike. I hope John is okay as he normally jumps right in on conversations like this. In the least, contact Stricker.

                          Have you checked for small rocks that may have gotten stuck? I'm surprised both brakes are hooked up together to act as one.

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                          • #14
                            I went out and took a good look at mine. If not electronic, it's has to be at the brake pads. The disc brake disc has holes for cooling. If a rock got stuck or brake pad fell of, it would make contact with the holes; causing the lurching. The reason you may not have been able to move it was it was stuck tightly in one of them.. When you're lurching to a stop, is it one big one or kind of like the hole pattern at the disc? Does it do it with the battery off? Check to ensure the brake itself is tight.

                            If it was the caliper brake. Check to ensure it opens and closes. Squeeze the caliper itself and then brake handle if it has one. THe only way I can see a c. brake lurch in that manner is if the brake was loose at the fork. Have someone stand in front and see if the two mechanisms are working in synch. Even if they weren't, they wouldn't cause that type of lurching.

                            Use a flashlight if nec. and look between where the pads touch the disc. Check to ensure both are there and the same distance between the disc; about a credit card thickness. press the brake lever on the brake to ensure it moves freely then with the brake handle.

                            If you have access to an air hose or blower use it on the disc brake. It's amazing the stuff that comes out of there.

                            When you adjusted the bike for the first time, did you use a torque wrench? What about adjustment? If the front wheel is not a 90o to the pavement, you'll get bucking going down hills. My first handcycle in '76 was like that. It's critical the bike is setup right. and torqued correctly. I rent one from a local store. Last time I set it up and took it up to a car mech. for him to torque it down.

                            I'd like to see a photo how you're sitting and angle of the wheel if possible. Should be on a hard surface to judge the angle of the front wheel. I'm getting ready to adjust mine again and just takes time.

                            It's either in the disc brake or the assist., Is there a way you can get the front wheel off the ground. Get it up to speed and crank on the brake. If it doesn't do it, somethings loose or not adjusted right. Listen for any noise from the front hub. Turn on the motor and do the same.


                            Electrical:: have you tried the different power levels. Was the battery left on the bike during the winter or taken off? Taking out the battery resets the electrical system. Push in the cables on the box. One could slightly be loose. When you mentioned you disconnected the battery on the second ride, did you actually take it off the bike or just turn it off. There's still juice running thru the system when turned off and doesn't reset.

                            I'm sure you've gone thru all the things i mentioned. I'm just troubleshooting looking at mine. I wonder if your chin throttle is sticking a bit and not disengaging. You rode with it turned off though. Anything in the trouble shooting section in the manual. Yours is different than mine.


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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ejl10 View Post
                              I took my Lipo Smart handcycle out for its first ride of the year yesterday. Pretty quickly I noticed that it was jerking when I braked hard, but I tried to manage it by braking more gently and continued to ride. It's pretty hilly in this area, so I needed to do a lot of braking on any of the downhill areas. By the end of my eight or so miles, I couldn't brake at all without the bike jerking violently. It felt like a horribly out of control anti-lock brake system or something similar. Absolutely no way to slow down the bike without convulsing to a complete stop. The handcycle tire was mostly flat by the end of the trip because it had been bucking so hard up and then back into the pavement, and flakes of paint actually came off of the Lipo for the same reason. It was downright dangerous to ride.

                              Anyone familiar with this hand cycle that can shed some light onto what's happening and how I can fix it? I'm away from home right now trying to steer clear of the pandemic back in Boston, and without the owner's manual. Definitely can't ride this thing again until I fix the problem, and unfortunately this is the only source of exercise I have with me!
                              Emmitt I don’t get over here much anymore pat told me there was a post about a striker so I jumped on. It’s got nothing to do with your motor and you’re disc brake is not hydraulic. Your brake pads need to break in even my unit does that in the beginning. Also that will do that if you’re using the weights sometimes until everything is broke in..
                              normally about the first 500 miles I noticed they’re a little too grabby. My new touring unit just stopped bouncing occasionally after about 600 miles

                              next time shoot me an email or a call always happy to help
                              And your unit has a full three-year bumper-to-bumper warranty
                              Bike-on.com rep
                              John@bike-on.com
                              c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                              sponsored handcycle racer

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