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  • #31
    Originally posted by Kulea View Post
    Having the AC running before you get in the van is super nice on a hot day.
    Just curious, how do you get the A/C to run when using the remote start without having the ignition switch on?

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    • #32
      You leave it enabled when you shut the car off.
      69yo male T12 complete since 1995
      NW NJ

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      • #33
        Originally posted by pfcs49 View Post
        You leave it enabled when you shut the car off.
        You leave the key in the vehicle, in the "on" or "accessory" position, so the blower motor can operate? Kind of an invitation for theft of everything?

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        • #34
          No, you shut it off and take the key when you had the AC on.
          69yo male T12 complete since 1995
          NW NJ

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Kulea View Post
            So, I've just been searching and it appears you can get AGM's for much less than the $420 battery you identified.
            The $420 battery was just an example of "best" available from my van. I'm doubtful that I would get my money's worth. But I will say that my original car battery (that costs over $400) lasted 13 years. That is probably because my car has a battery management system that charges the battery according to its specs and age. That feature is not available in my van. Hence, I wouldn't even think of getting that long life and couldn't justify the cost.

            Originally posted by Kulea View Post
            I still think your issue lies in the van and not the battery, or you had defective batteries.
            My car and van batteries are both Interstate batteries from Costco bought 6 weeks apart. They both failed at the same time under the same conditions. Hence, if it's my van, it's also my car. Maybe, but unlikely. I replaced the battery in my van already. But still have the battery in my car. I am digging a bit deeper to identify the root cause of failure. It's good to know.

            Originally posted by Kulea View Post
            But, you gotta get a new battery anyway and a 4 or 5 year replacement warranty is nice.
            I paid $149.76 for my EverStart Platinum AGM 65 battery. That price includes installation and a nationwide full replacement 5-year warranty.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Oldtimer View Post
              Just curious, how do you get the A/C to run when using the remote start without having the ignition switch on?
              As pfcs49 said, If the AC is on when you shut off the motor and remove the key, then when the remote start starts the engine the AC comes on, without any key. My remote start requires me to put the key in and turn it to ON within 15 minutes of the remote start, or it will shut the engine off. But, during those 15 minutes, the van behaves like the key was in, except for the safety feature that if you push the brake before turning the key on, the engine shuts off (I have that happen many times).
              C-6/7 incomplete

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              • #37
                I Googled Everstart Platinum AGM 65 battery.
                Without prejudice, you CAN find anything on the net!
                https://community.cartalk.com/t/bewa...-battery/89080
                I find it incredible that any battery could falloff it's own fault this consistently; almost as unusual as AWest's two Interstates shitting the bed!
                69yo male T12 complete since 1995
                NW NJ

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                • #38
                  • That review is 6 years old.
                  • The most recent reviews are positive.
                  • That's a different battery.
                  Last edited by August West; 10-12-2019, 10:22 PM.

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                  • #39
                    Any manufacturer may make a bad battery or even a batch of bad ones. That's neither here nor there. All you can do is your due diligence. The point I was trying to make is that AGM is a superior technology. Hence, people should consider it for their next battery. The drawback to AGM used to be price and warranty. But today, you can find an AGM battery for a good price with a warranty as good or better than a flooded lead acid battery. So the question isn't why AGM but why not? The only reason I can find is that they get pricey if you want their CCA rating to be on the higher side. Otherwise, I see no reason not to go with an AGM battery.

                    Having said that, I appreciate the positive feedback. If the problem is in my car or van, I need to know that in order to avoid a breakdown on the side of the road. I am in the process of testing the entire charging system. Believe it not, one does not need to be car shop owner to know how to test and troubleshoot.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by August West View Post
                      • That review is 6 years old.
                      • The most recent reviews are positive.
                      • That's a different battery.
                      Don't be paranoid!
                      I really am out to get you
                      69yo male T12 complete since 1995
                      NW NJ

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by pfcs49 View Post
                        I Googled Everstart Platinum AGM 65 battery.
                        Without prejudice, you CAN find anything on the net!
                        https://community.cartalk.com/t/bewa...-battery/89080
                        I find it incredible that any battery could falloff it's own fault this consistently; almost as unusual as AWest's two Interstates shitting the bed!
                        Long stories abridged:
                        *I had 4 batteries, customer supplied (which I resisted) from Autozone, that apparently were filled with water. Hydrometer showed nothing. 4th batt, I put meter on it before install w/customer and boss watching as I >demanded<, near nothing volts. Was ordered to charge it, I did all day, hydrometer still showed nothing! Customer and boss were pissed at me (some people hate being wrong).
                        *Ford Ranger 2300 eng, bad starter, tried to sell a Delco, customer got Autozone w/lifetime warranty for more than 1/2 price. Each of the 3 I put on lasted 1-2 weeks. Since my install was not at fault, I charged labor each time. When the 3rd failed, he said, "i've spent enough to have gotten the Delco". "Yep, I tried to tell you", I replied". Sceptical so many starters were bad, again my reputation was questioned. Just to prove my point and I felt sorry for the kid, I put a Delco on it for cost and no charge labor. The kid never doubted me again and became a good customer along with his family.

                        ANYTHING electrical/electronic from Autozone is a gamble with odds not in your favor. I replaced so many of their ignition modules, starters, alts, etc (distributor), more than I can count. Infant mortality (engineers term) is very short with TwiliteZone electric/electronic stuff. Most times customer would say, "XXXX Shop just replaced that part."
                        If you buy ANYTHING from them, make sure it's a name brand part that can be found at every other parts source. Their lifetime warranty is a scam.
                        Attack life, it's going to kill you anyway
                        Steve Mcqueen (Mr Cool)

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Kulea View Post
                          I still think your issue lies in the van and not the battery, or you had defective batteries.
                          I already replaced the battery in my van so I can't test it. But I still have the battery in the car. Water level was low so I added distilled water. Right away, there was an improvement. The water level must have been low from day one. Because when it was new it took 48 hours to fully charge after being fully charged just a day or two ago. After adding water, that time went down to 1-2 hours. While this is an improvement, a battery test failed. But why?

                          With the engine off, the charge loss in 24 hours was the same with or without the car connected to the battery. Hence, the problem isn't a parasitic load. With the engine on, there is 14.2V (measured directly at the battery terminals), which is ideal. Hence, the problem isn't the car's charging system, cables, or connectors. If the car isn't killing the battery while off and is charging the battery while on, what's left? The battery itself. These batteries were marginal to start and then failed due to low water level while sitting in 100 degree weather for several weeks without being charged.

                          You can't eliminate the risk of battery failure. You can only mitigate the risk by fully charging the battery on a regular basis, keeping it clean, and adding water if necessary.
                          • FLA battery - Drive the vehicle on the highway or use a battery charger at least once a week in order to fully charge the battery. Add water when low.
                          • AGM battery - Drive the vehicle on the highway or use a battery charger at least once a month in order to fully charge the battery. No need to add water.
                          • Remote starter - It's helpful in that it prevents battery discharge while operating the lift. But it's insufficient in that it doesn't charge the battery.

                          Personally, my solution is the AGM battery plus a battery charger as a backup. I usually drive once a month on the highway. But if I don't, I only have to use a battery charger once a month not once a week. Or something like that.

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                          • #43
                            well my van has delvoped issues starting got it back 3 weeks ago started let run30 minutes 1 time a week started week ago Friday fired right up. with a surge of 5 feet coming my sis gave to get it move it inland would not even try so we got jumper cables fired right up battery is 22 month old alternator is fine the shop was supposed to have done away with the battery under lift. I don/t know but . I am going to expermint

                            undo the connection to lift see what happens for a week or so as several on this site said the same thing I am thinking they did not go direct but we shall see

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                            • #44
                              A vehicle idling doesn't do a good job of charging a battery. Charge comes from current, which comes from RPMs. Low RPMs at idle means little charge. It's possible that the charge removed from the battery to start the vehicle is greater than the charge added to the battery at idle. Your effort to charge the battery may actually be discharging the battery. At some point you need to take the vehicle for a drive at high RPMs in order to supply enough current to charge the battery. Or else, apply a battery charger.

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                              • #45
                                You should start and run the engine to warm up everything. The alternator brushes can get stuck from not running do to moisture. Had one do this on me and connected my battery tester to it not charging. Tap alternator while running and it started to charge. A few days later back to not charging then tap it again then it charged. Took alternator off took it apart and sure as hell the brushes were corroded. Put a new alternator in it never had another problem.
                                Art

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