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NEW Chair NEW Vehicle Not compatible need ideas solutions?

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  • #31
    Hey thanks for the response. on rigid chair i have a hard back with contour i plan to use. I can see where it makes sense to go a little higher than normal I will have to play with that. On the bracket i guess Q straint makes one for most manual chairs now we will see how it works... I am sure yours is probably lighter and better too .

    Originally posted by krshirk View Post
    hey Paul! I'm the guy John was referring to. I've been a driver for 10+ years from a manual rigid chair. my current ride is a TiLite TR3. I am actually quite comfortable driving from my manual chair! I can drive for about two hours before I feel the need to pull over to do a 5min weight shift. The one suggestion I have is get yourself a solid back that is higher than what you would normally choose on a chair so that you have support behind you that isn't upholstery. I use a ADI carbon fiber high-back that is deep contoured. The contour helps me stay stable from left to right as well.

    As I told John, somehow I lost the pictures that I had shown him of my custom bracket for the EZlock but the bracket is fairly straightforward. I work with a bunch of engineers, one being a car builder with his own shop. We used chrome Molly for the pipe material. if you are familiar with the TR3 frame there are rails ( one on each side) under the mainframe that you would attach your seat upholstery to. He basically made a clamshell clamp to go around each rail. Then he used some one-inch diameter tubing to create a welded T. the cross member of the T was welded to each clamshell clamp and then the central down tube of the T was affixed with a welded C clamp that was used to clamp onto a bolt that he made from lighter material but almost exactly like the bolt used on those heavy ass EZlock brackets. The last part of the design was to create a diagonal tube connected from the downpipe of the T across to the rigidizer bar that sits towards the front portion of your seat underneath the upholstery. He clamped onto that rigidizer bar with another welded C clamp. like I said, it is a fairly simple design that is light and can be removed from the chair if need be. The only additional piece needed is and even more simple T bracket made from flat 3/8" (not 100% on that dimension) steel that is bolted through the floor of my Van. Attached to that is another flat steel piece bent to an L-shape that sits over the top of my footplate. this prevents my chair from tipping backwards when I accelerate. The piece that hooks over the footplate is flat enough that when I go to push myself into the lock my feet can be positioned on top of it after I'm in place. not sure when I will be able to get some pictures but hopefully this helps!

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    • #32
      Thanks for all your replies I am working with a lot of people trying to solve/improve this situation. Your input is appreciated. I will keep you posted and feel free to add your ideas/input.

      Thanks Paul

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      • #33
        out of curiosity why the custom ez instead of the q-straint dock which apears identical and q is compatible with both TR/ZR
        https://www.qstraint.com/qlk-150/
        Originally posted by krshirk View Post
        hey Paul! I'm the guy John was referring to. I've been a driver for 10+ years from a manual rigid chair. my current ride is a TiLite TR3. I am actually quite comfortable driving from my manual chair! I can drive for about two hours before I feel the need to pull over to do a 5min weight shift. The one suggestion I have is get yourself a solid back that is higher than what you would normally choose on a chair so that you have support behind you that isn't upholstery. I use a ADI carbon fiber high-back that is deep contoured. The contour helps me stay stable from left to right as well.

        As I told John, somehow I lost the pictures that I had shown him of my custom bracket for the EZlock but the bracket is fairly straightforward. I work with a bunch of engineers, one being a car builder with his own shop. We used chrome Molly for the pipe material. if you are familiar with the TR3 frame there are rails ( one on each side) under the mainframe that you would attach your seat upholstery to. He basically made a clamshell clamp to go around each rail. Then he used some one-inch diameter tubing to create a welded T. the cross member of the T was welded to each clamshell clamp and then the central down tube of the T was affixed with a welded C clamp that was used to clamp onto a bolt that he made from lighter material but almost exactly like the bolt used on those heavy ass EZlock brackets. The last part of the design was to create a diagonal tube connected from the downpipe of the T across to the rigidizer bar that sits towards the front portion of your seat underneath the upholstery. He clamped onto that rigidizer bar with another welded C clamp. like I said, it is a fairly simple design that is light and can be removed from the chair if need be. The only additional piece needed is and even more simple T bracket made from flat 3/8" (not 100% on that dimension) steel that is bolted through the floor of my Van. Attached to that is another flat steel piece bent to an L-shape that sits over the top of my footplate. this prevents my chair from tipping backwards when I accelerate. The piece that hooks over the footplate is flat enough that when I go to push myself into the lock my feet can be positioned on top of it after I'm in place. not sure when I will be able to get some pictures but hopefully this helps!
        Bike-on.com rep
        John@bike-on.com
        c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
        sponsored handcycle racer

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