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I wish I did this 12 years ago!

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  • I wish I did this 12 years ago!

    That?s how long I've been driving VW GTI?s
    I always try to not let go of the hatchback when I?m putting something in the trunk which usually fails because I'll need to hands.
    It was so easy! Some braided nylon rope and a radiator hose clamp (which in Britain is called a Jubilee clip. I just HAD to share that!)
    It works very well. Just let go of the hood and it stops when it reaches the rope which stays inside the hatch when it?s closed.
    And if you need it fully open, it?s easy to open up the loop and move it out onto the sliding part/piston rod.

    It puts the hatch @90*, making a nice umbrella if needed!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by pfcs49; 09-20-2018, 05:57 PM.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  • #2
    Ingenious. I just drove for the first time today after my accident back in February, I am close to being back on the road. Right before my accident we purchased a 2017 Golf Alltrack and I cannot reach the hatch when it is open and have been thinking of ideas that would work, I like this one.

    Being that my background is sailboats and rigging I may ma try to devise something slightly slicker but thanks so much for the idea.

    Cheers,
    Jim

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    • #3
      Afterwards, I realized that if I put several turns into the rope around the rod, it would soften the action and prevent the rope getting shocked at full extension as well as absolutely preventing the rope from showing when the hatch is down.
      But, being such an perfectionist/over-achiever, I left the ends ugly/long
      69yo male T12 complete since 1995
      NW NJ

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      • #4
        I had the same problem with my hatchback Toyota and contemplated all manner of solutions.
        Then it dawned on me' the hatch has drain holes along the base that allow any water to free drain outside the hatch weather/draught seal.
        The solution for me was a length of high tensile galvanised wire with a short 90 degree bend at one end and an eye at the other. The 90 bend has electrical heat-shrink to protect the paint and locates in one of the three drain holes while the eye end is grasped then the hatch pulled down to where I can close it shut.
        It works for me.

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        • #5
          I've always put a loop from the middle of the hatch that hangs down far enough I can grab it and close the door. Saab use to put them on their cars from the factory.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by baldfatdad View Post
            I've always put a loop from the middle of the hatch that hangs down far enough I can grab it and close the door. Saab use to put them on their cars from the factory.
            Don't see how I could get it to go into the compartment when closing or I'd have done it long ago.
            69yo male T12 complete since 1995
            NW NJ

            Comment


            • #7
              I had a couple of Golf Wagon, a 2013 and then a 2015. I simply tied a nylon strap to the top of the hatch and pulled on it to close the hatch and threw it into the car when the hatch was halfway down closing it so it would not stick out. Worked really well. With my benz wagon it has a power closing and opening hatch although the only problem I've encountered is sometimes my feet get under the bumper and that activates the hatch down and it can come down on my head if I'm not careful. Solution to that issue was to put a wooden prop rod in when its in the open position to hold it from coming down if it accidentally gets activated. No way of simply plugging the sensor unfortunately.
              "Life is about how you
              respond to not only the
              challenges you're dealt but
              the challenges you seek...If
              you have no goals, no
              mountains to climb, your
              soul dies".~Liz Fordred

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by slow_runner View Post
                I had the same problem with my hatchback Toyota and contemplated all manner of solutions.
                Then it dawned on me' the hatch has drain holes along the base that allow any water to free drain outside the hatch weather/draught seal.
                The solution for me was a length of high tensile galvanised wire with a short 90 degree bend at one end and an eye at the other. The 90 bend has electrical heat-shrink to protect the paint and locates in one of the three drain holes while the eye end is grasped then the hatch pulled down to where I can close it shut.
                It works for me.

                I had a 2008 VW R32 that had a drain hole like you or maybe I drilled a small hole I can't really remember. What I do remember is that it didn't noticeably disfigure the car, otherwise I wouldn't have done it. Anyway, I took one of those stiff rubber trucker tie down straps that you often see on the road, which is where I found mine. I hooked one of the ends in the hole and cut the hook at the other end off. It hung down about 24". When lowering the hatch, with about a foot left before closing I would scoot it inside before closing completely. Being made of stiff rubber once it was partially in the trunk area it would keep going inside as you close the hatch. When others would mistakenly close the hatch without scooting it in first, the hatch still closed but my makeshift handle wouldn't hurt the paint. It wasn't pretty but it worked.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have the opposite problem in my Bimmer. The trunk doesn't go up like it used to. I used to be able to position the trunk with almost no force and it would stay just where I left it. Or I could give a little extra push upward and it would move the rest of the way up on it's own. It was almost effortless. So nice. Now the trunk only opens as far as I push it then it falls back down if I let go. How do you adjust the piston assembly so it works the way it used to work?

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                  • #10
                    Regas the air ram or make a prop? A piece of 40x20 dressed timber cut to length?

                    Originally posted by August West View Post
                    I have the opposite problem in my Bimmer. The trunk doesn't go up like it used to. I used to be able to position the trunk with almost no force and it would stay just where I left it. Or I could give a little extra push upward and it would move the rest of the way up on it's own. It was almost effortless. So nice. Now the trunk only opens as far as I push it then it falls back down if I let go. How do you adjust the piston assembly so it works the way it used to work?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Looking back now, your solution of the stiff rubber would have worked a treat.
                      Originally I had a length of belt strapping, the type found on strollers etc, that worked well in the same way your solution was applied. The trouble was that it required a 'last moment' closing technique that required some dexterity and good timing when closing the hatch to ensure it wasn't trapped in the boot latch mechanism.
                      I was well aware of the potential, and it helped that I was at the correct height[IMG]/forum/images/smilies/smile.png[/IMG], while able bodies weren't and consequently the strap suffered until it was completely stuffed.
                      The wire reacher functions well and I do not have to be concerned about damage or loss of, as I am the only one who requires it. A simple foolproof solution- for me.

                      Originally posted by fasdude View Post
                      I had a 2008 VW R32 that had a drain hole like you or maybe I drilled a small hole I can't really remember. What I do remember is that it didn't noticeably disfigure the car, otherwise I wouldn't have done it. Anyway, I took one of those stiff rubber trucker tie down straps that you often see on the road, which is where I found mine. I hooked one of the ends in the hole and cut the hook at the other end off. It hung down about 24". When lowering the hatch, with about a foot left before closing I would scoot it inside before closing completely. Being made of stiff rubber once it was partially in the trunk area it would keep going inside as you close the hatch. When others would mistakenly close the hatch without scooting it in first, the hatch still closed but my makeshift handle wouldn't hurt the paint. It wasn't pretty but it worked.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by pfcs49 View Post
                        Don't see how I could get it to go into the compartment when closing or I'd have done it long ago.
                        Just hangs out the back like a tail. If I wanted it inside, I'd put velcro or a magnet on it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by August West View Post
                          I have the opposite problem in my Bimmer. The trunk doesn't go up like it used to. I used to be able to position the trunk with almost no force and it would stay just where I left it. Or I could give a little extra push upward and it would move the rest of the way up on it's own. It was almost effortless. So nice. Now the trunk only opens as far as I push it then it falls back down if I let go. How do you adjust the piston assembly so it works the way it used to work?
                          Get new gas shocks. $10-$20. First you can try silicone spray on the rods of the ones you have, but I doubt that will fix it.
                          G

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