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  • bed/mattress

    what types of beds do yall prefer i have a sealey posterpedic its old and im getting bony hips looking to get a new one
    to alcohol the cause of-and solution to-all of lifes problems [homer simpson]

  • #2
    Originally posted by wheelin 48 View Post
    what types of beds do yall prefer i have a sealey posterpedic its old and im getting bony hips looking to get a new one
    sleep number, we love ours rep
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer


    • #3
      I currently have a transfermaster with sleep number mattress both good and very adjustable. My favorite mattress was a natural pure latex mattress, very expensive though.


      • #4
        I have a waterbed, love it......


        • #5
          Sleep number. It's great.


          • #6
            Been a Sleep Number fan for years. But, they are not without their problems and I will have to seriously consider buying another one or not when the time comes.

            We've replaced two actuators, one on each of our beds. The actuator is located under the bed, and operates the foot/head up down function. In one case, the actuator just stopped working. In the other case, the head of the bed would drift down slowly after the head was raised. The actuators are $185.00 a copy and you will have to install it yourself or have some one install it at a rate of about $55.00 an hour. It is a pretty easy replacement, NL changed them out in both cases.

            After about 10 years of use, a big issue occurred. The Sleep Number bed platform is made up of 3 plywood plates that are hinged together with flexible plastic hinges. These bases are made by Legget and Platt (maker of just about all adjustable bed bases), not by Sleep Number. There is a plywood head plate, a middle plate and a foot plate "hinged" together with plastic strap hinges. As a person with a spinal cord injury, you will probably raise and lower the head and foot of the bed many more times than the average user. All the same, the hinges flex and stress cracks form where the hinges bend. Eventually, the hinges snap and break (mine broke about 4 weeks apart from one another, and when the hinges break, they make a very loud cracking sound.), which renders the wall hugger feature useless. The head or foot of the bed can still be raised and lowered, but you have to pull the bed away from the wall. NL doesn't use the raise and lower feature much, so we just swapped beds. It took NL and I the better part of an afternoon trouble shooting what had occurred by comparing her unbroken bed to mine. I understand there is a $13.00 repair kit, that will cost about $100.00+ to have an authorized repair person install.

            I've also had to replace the raise/lower controller on both beds and the sleep number controller on both beds. In each case, the controllers just stopped working. This wasn't a simple change the battery problem. The raise/lower controllers just stopped working and the sleep number controllers started to read out strange characters when inflating and deflating the beds, so you couldn't rely on the pressure being what you wanted it to be. These were pretty inexpensive to replace under the pro rated replacement offered by Sleep Number.

            On my model the chamber that holds the air bladder is affixed to the base of the bed with bolts and large plastic washers that penetrate the dust cover. Over the years, the dust cover has ripped around the plastic washers. Guess it isn't a big problem, just irritating and unsightly. I understand the new models are not made like ours are made.

            And it has to be said, Sleep Number beds are pricey.


            • #7
              After trying innerspring, air, and water mattresses, I am back to an innerspring mattress. Air mattresses tend to lose their shape. Here are some reasons:
              1. Think of an air mattress like a balloon. When you press down on one spot, that area sinks while the adjacent area rises. This is because air displaces. Water also displaces. Air mattress manufacturers try to minimize this problem by designing the air bladders so that the displacement goes laterally. As a result your air mattress develops bulges around the sides. Look at any old air mattress and you'll see this. This adds distance to your transfer.
              2. The foam around the border of an air mattress tends to be soft and only softens more over time. This makes transfers more difficult.
              3. Air mattresses don't conform well to adjustable bases. When you raise the head of the mattress you want the mattress to pivot at an angle just like a recliner sofa would. An air mattress doesn't bend at an angle. It makes a large sloppy C shape curve that lifts off the base exactly where is should be making a sharp bend. Your body weight is required to keep the bend in place. This makes it more difficult to move and get in and out.

              Innerspring mattresses have none of these problems. The problem with innerspring mattresses is that they aren't modular (until recently). When one part of the mattress wears out, you have to replace the entire mattress. The top layer is usually the softest and wears out much before the bottom layers. Today you can have a modular innerspring mattress. When the top layer wears out you replace only that layer. This way you may get away with replacing the top foam layer every few years while the bottom foam layers last longer. The innerspring may last a lifetime.

              I have the Legget and Platt Prodigy adjustable base. The mattress is a DIY built with Leggett and Platt Combi-zone innerspring, 2" medium latex on top, and 1" 5lb density memory foam in the middle. I like it. Excellent support, comfortable, modular, and perhaps the last one I will have to buy.
              Last edited by August West; 10-08-2017, 05:39 PM.