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  • #16
    Originally posted by Andy View Post
    I think in your previous van thread someone brought up the idea of bigger rotors and maybe 4 or 6 piston calipers from aftermarket sources (if doing a retrofit from say, a 3500 series GM van was not possible). I can say from my latest vehicle that idea definitely has merit. I did some quick googling for something like this from say Wilwood, but didn't see anything available for the GM vans. Which kind of sucks. I think you went though the process of a different higher assist booster from some place, unsuccessfully if I recall also. That sucks too. So I'm pretty much at a loss unless you can find someone to maybe retrofit the brake rotor/caliper/possibly spindle/possibly master cylinder/possibly more from a 1 ton/3500 GM van to get a higher capacity braking system. I'm sort of thinking at this point a different vehicle with better brake possibilities might be the best way to attack this problem. Yeah, that sucks too. Unless you can get someone more reliable to modify a brake booster for more assist using your existing brakes.
    I'm used to it but always think in the back of my mind it should brake better. I need to replace brakes in spring I will go with the ebc setup. yah, the modded hydroboost was bullshit, did nothing.
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    • #17
      Originally posted by fuentejps View Post
      I'm used to it but always think in the back of my mind it should brake better. I need to replace brakes in spring I will go with the ebc setup. yah, the modded hydroboost was bullshit, did nothing.
      I agree, you should not be having a braking issue. I've used temporary type brake hand controls on both my 2005 and 2016 Chev Express vans and had no problems force wise. Those temps are connected to the pedal, that is they are connected to the rubber foot part of the pedal, not the shaft. So maybe it is possible I'm getting more leverage than you are if yours is connected on the shaft. It is something to consider. My wife has no problems driving the van since the rod is connected on the left side of the pedal (temp is mounted permanently).
      Last edited by nonoise; 10-01-2017, 03:22 PM.
      I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by fuentejps View Post
        I'm used to it but always think in the back of my mind it should brake better. I need to replace brakes in spring I will go with the ebc setup. yah, the modded hydroboost was bullshit, did nothing.
        Re pads...my car came with Brembo pads, they bit hard and stopped like nothing else. But they dusted like a MF'er making it hard to keep the wheels and sides of the car clean. So I switched them to Powerstop Z26 pads (popular for that genre of car). Dust much less and have a perceptible lessening of braking bite, nothing big, but you can notice it with operating the brakes with your hand. Long story short, maybe see if you can get some Brembo pads for the brake replacement. If not, see if you can get Powerstop z26/z23 pads as they are known good but with a bit less bite. No idea how the EBC's are, but thought I'd throw the Powerstop and Brembo option out there.

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        • #19
          I just got push/rock Featherlites yesterday, coming from old style SureGrip push/rock, my initial reaction is hell yeah.

          Not having the gas rod in the way is really nice. The best part so far is the reduction of the "throw" for throttle, and some maybe old van to new also. But my old ones took a rotation of about 160-170 degrees of rock to go pedal to the metal, new new ones are about 50 degrees of rotation. Makes it much touchier when taking off, easy to over accelerate, but it's only been one day so I'll get better quickly.

          So neither knee is in the way now, when before I had to locate both legs correctly, the handle needed to go down past my left knee, and the "knuckle" on the right side of the assembly could whack me in the right knee.

          Yeah I already had WTF? moment when leaving my friends house, had no power, oh yeah dummy, shut the van off restart and hit the button in time. Kulea, wish I had known this, wonder what it takes to reverse it? But I might leave it, I'll learn to do it automatically after enough times, where in reverse, my wife who drives it very occasionally would never remember that button with such small use. Frantic phone calls would be had.
          "a T10, who'd Rather be ridin'; than rollin'"

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Andy View Post
            Re pads...my car came with Brembo pads, they bit hard and stopped like nothing else. But they dusted like a MF'er making it hard to keep the wheels and sides of the car clean. So I switched them to Powerstop Z26 pads (popular for that genre of car). Dust much less and have a perceptible lessening of braking bite, nothing big, but you can notice it with operating the brakes with your hand. Long story short, maybe see if you can get some Brembo pads for the brake replacement. If not, see if you can get Powerstop z26/z23 pads as they are known good but with a bit less bite. No idea how the EBC's are, but thought I'd throw the Powerstop and Brembo option out there.
            I switched my stock brakes on my Chevy Express Explorer van 1500 to EBC slotted and drilled rotors with the EBC green stuff pads. Braking was a big improvement however the EBC pads wore fast and left lots of dust so I switched to Akebono ceramic pads. What a difference, no more dust and better stopping.

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            • #21
              same van as mine, we have high top 2014. did you feel stock brakes were a bit light for this big van?
              Originally posted by GinoL View Post
              I switched my stock brakes on my Chevy Express Explorer van 1500 to EBC slotted and drilled rotors with the EBC green stuff pads. Braking was a big improvement however the EBC pads wore fast and left lots of dust so I switched to Akebono ceramic pads. What a difference, no more dust and better stopping.
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              John@bike-on.com
              c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
              sponsored handcycle racer

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              • #22
                I have a lot more weight with the high top over stock as well though. my clamp is about 2 inches above the pedal. any lower and my hand hits dash from the longer throw. like I said I have gotten used to it but I know the braking could be better.
                Originally posted by nonoise View Post
                I agree, you should not be having a braking issue. I've used temporary type brake hand controls on both my 2005 and 2016 Chev Express vans and had no problems force wise. Those temps are connected to the pedal, that is they are connected to the rubber foot part of the pedal, not the shaft. So maybe it is possible I'm getting more leverage than you are if yours is connected on the shaft. It is something to consider. My wife has no problems driving the van since the rod is connected on the left side of the pedal (temp is mounted permanently).
                Bike-on.com rep
                John@bike-on.com
                c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                sponsored handcycle racer

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by fuentejps View Post
                  I have a lot more weight with the high top over stock as well though. my clamp is about 2 inches above the pedal. any lower and my hand hits dash from the longer throw. like I said I have gotten used to it but I know the braking could be better.
                  If you're talking about the clamp that attaches to the brake pedal, and it's 2" above the pedal, that's your problem. It should be as low as possible to allow the most leverage. As far as your hand hitting the dash, that should be able to be adjusted.

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                  • #24
                    yah, we have played with it. I have it as low as I can and still get full throw. theres not a lot of room in there.
                    Originally posted by Rustyjames View Post
                    If you're talking about the clamp that attaches to the brake pedal, and it's 2" above the pedal, that's your problem. It should be as low as possible to allow the most leverage. As far as your hand hitting the dash, that should be able to be adjusted.
                    Bike-on.com rep
                    John@bike-on.com
                    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                    sponsored handcycle racer

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                    • #25
                      What a shame. I have the regular Suregrip rock and push that was installed on my car just 2 years ago. While they work very well and take very little effort to engage the throttle, I would love to have these new Featherlites. When I first got them, they needed too much effort to push down on the accelerator but after a simple adjustment of locating the rod more at the top of the pedal for more leverage they are now "featherlite". Doing this may have one minor drawback, I don't think I can floor the accelerator 100% because I run out of rod length. However, my installer did a real good job of bending the rods to keep them as tight up against the dash as possible and I don't find them in the way at all. Incidentally, I live about 25min. away from the guy who invented the Suregrip hand controls. His name is Keith Howell. Keith is a good guy but the guy he hired to run his shop is kind of dick and we had a falling out so I can't bring my cars there anymore for installs.

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                      • #26
                        Is everyone still liking their Featherlite controls? I am done with the push/rock controls and want to go back to right angle. The Featherlite's offer more leg room but are about twice the price.
                        "Never argue with an idiot; they'll drag you down to their level and other people may not be able to tell the difference."

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                        • #27
                          I'll be having some of these installed tomorrow in my new vehicle (2018 Ford Fusion SE with technology and appearance packages). I'll let you know what I think after I have a chance to use them for a week or so.

                          One thing that still annoys me about hand controls (at least the ones I like - PUSH/RIGHT ANGLE) is they haven't figured out a way to prevent having to disable adjustable/telescoping steering wheels.
                          Attached Files
                          -ResonantEcho - T6/T7 Complete - October 31st, 1986

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by ResonantEcho View Post
                            I'll be having some of these installed tomorrow in my new vehicle (2018 Ford Fusion SE with technology and appearance packages). I'll let you know what I think after I have a chance to use them for a week or so.

                            One thing that still annoys me about hand controls (at least the ones I like - PUSH/RIGHT ANGLE) is they haven't figured out a way to prevent having to disable adjustable/telescoping steering wheels.

                            Hmmmmmm. Yeah. That doesn't seem like a huge engineering hurdle. I always wonder if the small market stiffles innovation when it comes to our tech. Congrats on the new ride. Love the color and wheels combo.
                            "I have great faith in fools; self-confidence my friends call it." - Edgar Allen Poe

                            "If you only know your side of an issue, you know nothing." -John Stuart Mill, On Liberty

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by ResonantEcho View Post
                              One thing that still annoys me about hand controls (at least the ones I like - PUSH/RIGHT ANGLE) is they haven't figured out a way to prevent having to disable adjustable/telescoping steering wheels.
                              There is a way...just don't do it. But when dealing with installers who have issues with understanding the concept of keeping the hand control mechanism out of the column tilt arc...gotta solve for the lowest common denominator.

                              Here's an overview pic of the system. The forum doesn't seem to want to accept a pdf upload, so if anyone wants the whole manual, PM me your email.

                              One additional take-away...the Featherlites can be ordered with "same last state" functionality, which bypasses the need to constantly press the switching button as it remains in the mode it was in when the car was turned off. From what Howell says, it has to be ordered this way from the factory, so keep that in mind when getting these.
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                Wow! You have to really be careful with these on first use. They're very, very touchy. I was pulling out of their shop down a steep decline and applied the break. Since it takes very little pressure to engage the gas, I had both going at the same time (gas and break) and started freaking out. The engine was really revving. Thought there was an issue with the install. Slammed the car into park real quick. The installer came running toward the car asking if something was wrong. He said it would take a bit to get used to.

                                Before heading out on the highway into traffic I drove it around their parking lot for a while and up and down a side street. I finally adjusted. Now when applying the break I push not only toward the dash but up as well. That way I don't accidentally accelerate. It takes VERY little effort to accelerate the car.

                                A few more days and I should be good to go.
                                Last edited by ResonantEcho; 03-30-2018, 11:15 AM.
                                -ResonantEcho - T6/T7 Complete - October 31st, 1986

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