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    I think I remember reading if the battery is left in the chair it will slowly discharge. Do you suppose the (processor) on the chair is a constant draw? And would that make a difference?

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      Originally posted by TREA18 View Post
      I think I remember reading if the battery is left in the chair it will slowly discharge. Do you suppose the (processor) on the chair is a constant draw? And would that make a difference?
      Well there seems to be something going on in my chair I don't understand. I did read through the manual that came with my Iglide. It has a date of 2004 in it FWIW and only found that they recommend charging every night. The NIMH battery will slowly discharge and die whether it is left in the chair or not if it is neglected.
      I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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        Now that I think about it I do remember there being a decent spark when connecting the wires to the iglide. It certainly makes to think you did something wrong.

        As Tony was saying the chair will kill a battery if left in the chair. I bought a new $600 battery from J&J then had arm surgery and could not use the chair for 2 weeks. I made the mistake of leaving it plugged in and it killed it, could no longer charge it. I was pissed. I learned later I could have "jump started" the battery to revive it. Nimh will self discharge but it will discharge much faster in the chair due to a current draw.

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          Originally posted by maddog View Post
          Now that I think about it I do remember there being a decent spark when connecting the wires to the iglide. It certainly makes to think you did something wrong.

          As Tony was saying the chair will kill a battery if left in the chair. I bought a new $600 battery from J&J then had arm surgery and could not use the chair for 2 weeks. I made the mistake of leaving it plugged in and it killed it, could no longer charge it. I was pissed. I learned later I could have "jump started" the battery to revive it. Nimh will self discharge but it will discharge much faster in the chair due to a current draw.
          Thanks for the recall. As I said, I could find nothing wrong with what I did, so I will rebuild this experiment. It is raining now, and I woke to a flat. Dang, month old tires and tubes. The old ones were thread bare and never had a problem. I should have gone Marathons.

          Jumping nicad or nimh never worked worked out well for me. You might have been able to revive yours since the dormant period was small. I got some dead batteries up to apparent full charge, but the Ah sucked as neither lasted in service any worthwhile time.

          Edit (added) Maddog, you might have been able to save your battery, because now that I've had time to think about it, one of the ones I was able to start here had your name on it.

          This new information makes me want to put a battery kill switch on the battery pack.
          Last edited by nonoise; 15 Jul 2019, 7:01 PM.
          I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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            Well AA batteries talked to me today and they stated that the iglide battery is a 30A Discharge rate so what ever we do it should be at least that. The battery below is 40A discharge and 13.2ah so it might be a good battery for this application. I'm also posting the charger for this battery. Now I'm wondering what everyone here thinks? In my mind it should work.
            LiFePO4 Battery: 25.6V 13.2Ah (337 Wh, 40A rate ) for E-bike*

            Smart Charger (6.0A) for 25.9V Li-ion / 25.6V LiFePO4 Battery Packs

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              It will probably work, but as usual I have questions. First is that it is listed as a 25.9V battery. That is okay with the Iglide, but have the high and low cuttoff voltages been altered? High should be 29.2. I think Iglide can take more, but the low is what concerns me too. We do not want the battery cutting power before a standard rated 24V LifeP04 battery. Second is more or less minor but I think that the battery place is guessing about the 30 Amp discharge rate, especially when we have a 20 Amp an OEM quick blow fuse. Lastly they do not state A. A and Ah are not the same. https://www.pololu.com/blog/2/unders...ty-ah-is-not-a Using W=VxA and substituting Wh for W, 337=25.6 X A A = 13.2 odd coincidence same number in this case as Ah. Anyway I believe this is a 13A battery which makes some sense since time has passed since the SmartDrive batteries came out. Those were 10Ah batteries, also with no A marked anywhere that I can find.

              As for the charger, it will quick charge at 6A. I do not know if you need that or just how good quick charging is for the cells. I'd ask about a 2A compatible charger, should be about $30. Charging time would be increased substantially at 2A.
              I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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                Good points. He did say there are 8 batteries in that pack if I remember correctly. I'll see if I can get some more answers.
                Here's another.
                Home > LiFePO4/LiFeMnPO4 Batteries > 25.6V/(24V) LiFePO4 Battery Packs > Custom LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic Battery Pack: 24V 20Ah (480Wh, 60A rate, 8 Cells Stacked)
                Custom LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic Battery Pack: 24V 20Ah (480Wh, 60A rate, 8 Cells Stacked)

                Last edited by TREA18; 16 Jul 2019, 8:16 PM.

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                  Originally posted by TREA18 View Post
                  ... LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic Battery Pack: 24V 20Ah (480Wh, 60A rate, 8 Cells Stacked)

                  ...

                  This is in the specs for this battery. " Protection: Over-charge (>25.5V)"
                  It is not helpful for full battery range. That cuts off nearly four volts of use as far as I can see.

                  From what I'm learning with the Watts-Up, I bet most of their better 24's are good though. I'll try to get something together that makes some sense. What it appears like, and I need to repeat this test is to turn your chair off often even if you plan to move again soon. I've often wondered if Iglide sucked juice just keeping it on idle by moving a little now and then. I looks like it sucks, more later.
                  Last edited by nonoise; 17 Jul 2019, 12:58 AM.
                  I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

                  Comment


                    Ok, I have been putting together a battery with a bluetooth bms to help determine exactly what the iglide power needs are. What I found out was somewhat surprising. The chair pulls 0.4A sitting still which is a little more than I thought it would. Pushing on a hard flat surface draws very little amps, one quick burst of power and then zero amps, less than sitting still. The highest amps I have seen today were around 12A. Lower current draws than expected opens up more battery choices including maybe the Bioenno Power one posted earlier, although a higher amp rating would be better.

                    video of bluetooth app while pushing. All of the pushing was done at above walking speed.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UFp7TUrQ8U

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                      Watts-Up Some observations

                      The battery I am testing is one of the bargain basement $10.00 ones that I got a few years ago which be built with fake Samsung cells. Looking closer at the original case they came in I see they are actually five years old.
                      Compounding those two items these batteries have not seen any action, always being in storage. I picked this battery because I wanted to quickly find out at what voltage the Iglide turns itself off due to low voltage. I have been suspicious for some time that the NCM batteries I've been using could go to a lower voltage, but the software in the chair cuts them off. It might be NIMH has a higher cutoff voltage than NCM and the cutoff is controlled by the chair.

                      The battery is supposed to be 24 Volt 20A 4.3Ah But it might have fake cells. I cannot confirm their Samsung date codes.

                      I ran that battery for an astonishing 4 hours. It was a gentle run, van trip to the hardware store, some blueberry and raspberry picking/eating, yard work, and some "pushing" around the neighborhood to use up the battery.

                      Starting voltage was 28.8V This seemed okay as the battery is five years old. Full charge is supposed to be 29.2

                      At 1.5 hours in this what the meter read out:
                      10.7 Volts min 48.2 Watt hours 11.00 Amps peak 202 Watts peak 1.22 Amp hours

                      At 4 hours which is when I quit for the day this is what the meter read: (I stopped for the day as the battery had now reached 24.6 Volts and it was dinnertime.)
                      10.7 Volts min 79.7 Watt hours 12.3 Amps peak 232 Watts peak 3.0 Amp hours

                      There are lots of ways to look at this. One is 79.7 Watt hours / 4 hours use = 20 Watt hours per hour of light use. Another might be an Amp hour an hour. Right off the bat, I can't figure out if I should hate or love these little batteries. Did I ever say they only weigh 1.5 pounds? They would make better backup batteries solo than doubling them the way I have them now.
                      Last edited by nonoise; 22 Jul 2019, 1:49 AM. Reason: corrected Volts max to Volt min
                      I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by maddog View Post
                        Ok, I have been putting together a battery with a bluetooth bms to help determine exactly what the iglide power needs are. What I found out was somewhat surprising. The chair pulls 0.4A sitting still which is a little more than I thought it would. Pushing on a hard flat surface draws very little amps, one quick burst of power and then zero amps, less than sitting still. The highest amps I have seen today were around 12A. Lower current draws than expected opens up more battery choices including maybe the Bioenno Power one posted earlier, although a higher amp rating would be better.

                        video of bluetooth app while pushing. All of the pushing was done at above walking speed.

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UFp7TUrQ8U
                        Something went wrong opening your link. It goes to youtube and then says "This video is unavailable". I am glad you got into helping solve this little puzzle.
                        I am as astounded as you are. But doing gardening I sit pulling weeds and then move a few inches, just enough to keep the motor on. After some time I got to thinking this thing seems to be sucking battery just sitting here doing nothing. But is it? You know how Segways always look like they are in a motion keeping in balance. I think these are doing something similar. Don't push the tires, because they are resisting motion. To do that the sensors are at work. Like SmartDrive sensors can be too sensitive at times. After my first trial with the Watts-Up I got to thinking the best thing is to just shut down every time one comes to a stop which is crazy nuts unless your battery is getting to be on the weak side.
                        Last edited by nonoise; 21 Jul 2019, 5:36 PM. Reason: youtube
                        I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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                          Link has been updated should work now
                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UFp7TUrQ8U

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                            According to your Watts-up your peak amps are similar to mine. I found speed effects amps a lot more than I thought it would. Going slowly up the grass hill in the video used less amps than fast on flat grass. I put my front caster up against my car tire and pushed as hard as I could and only used 7A.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by maddog View Post
                              According to your Watts-up your peak amps are similar to mine. I found speed effects amps a lot more than I thought it would. Going slowly up the grass hill in the video used less amps than fast on flat grass. I put my front caster up against my car tire and pushed as hard as I could and only used 7A.
                              Yes repeatable results from different methods are nice to see. My max Amp peak was from the previous trial run. We have a very short but steep, maybe even 10% street here I tried to do as fast and hard as I could while watching the meter. Try as I could I only saw something over 11. However it recorded 12.45 Amps peak for the day. That day it also hit a 318.15 Watts peak. My electrically enlightened neighbor thought that was quite a lot.
                              I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by nonoise View Post
                                However it recorded 12.45 Amps peak for the day. That day it also hit a 318.15 Watts peak.
                                Watts = volts x amps
                                12.45A x 25.5v = 318 watts

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