I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

[nonoise]

Those individual Samsung cells have an output of 10A. Your battery should be 50A after 5P. I know parallel doubles capacity, does it not also double the capable amps? Does your battery have a pcm limiting the total output to 10A?

I see in an older post you stated you had a Watts Up meter, any chance you could connect it to your iglide battery and see what the highest amps the chair draws. Knowing the exact amps needed would help determine what batteries will work.

I tried and failed to prove or disprove your 50A statement. It is well documented that parallel packs add Ah, but I saw no mention of A one way or the other. I did see several instances of folks who had constructed 90P packs. Think of the current 90P would develop. So I believe the amperage stays the same when batteries are connected in parallel with or without pcm/bms.

Using a Watts Up is a great idea. I've decided to order a second one for testing purposes instead of tearing into the permanently mounted other one. Besides I lost the instructions, it seems to me there was something not so straight forward about the installation. Initially I'll just use one of my little 14 cell battery packs and see what it reads out since that is the easiest to set up.

[pfcs49]

Paralleling Doubles the current output (and Ah)

Series has no effect on A/current but doubles V/voltage, (and yes, for engineers current is I)

[nonoise]

Paralleling Doubles the current output (and Ah)

Series has no effect on A/current but doubles V/voltage, (and yes, for engineers current is I)

Thanks Phil, Here is an example from https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...configurations. That find eluded my search earlier:
On March 12, 2011 at 10:07am
===paste=======
Brian wrote:

@Kolin
No, that?s not right at all.
20 batteries @ 1.2V and 4.5 A
To get to 12 V you need 10 in series giving 12 V @ 4.5A
Do this twice and place the two sets of 12 in parallel, you get 12V @ 9A.
You overall battery capacity Wh, can not exceed the sum of the individual pieces.
20 batteries @ 1.2 V and 4.5A = 5.4 Wh per cell or 108 Wh total.
The same above, 12V @ 9A = 108 Wh.


====end=====

This also clears up the mystery why those bargain batteries I bought that were supposed to be 6A ran my I-Glide, but have little staying on time. They are the same type Samsumg 22p cells 2150Ah which are rated at 10 Amp. Why the clerk told me otherwise, I do not know. Anyway there are 14 cells inside. Seven parallel pairs of two cells each connected in series. The parallel pairs of 10 Amp cells would make it a 20 Amp battery, plenty enough to power the I-Glide like Maddog said way upthread.

I should post a pic of this low Ah 20A battery. It looks pretty familiar.

[nonoise]

Paralleling Doubles the current output (and Ah)

Series has no effect on A/current but doubles V/voltage, (and yes, for engineers current is I)

I got to thinking Phil might know that because he is a car guy. Oh damn! I've been hooking car batteries together (jumping) since I was a teenager. I should have known, it's not just how long the battery pair will last but how good it will crank. Thanks again Phil for waking me up and teaching me something. BTW I hated it in college when they started using I.

[TREA18]

I'm back and thanks for all your help. All of you. After reading, we are some what concluding that if I go lifePO4 that it should be 24V, at least 10ah and 20a?

[nonoise]

I'm back and thanks for all your help. All of you. After reading, we are some what concluding that if I go lifePO4 that it should be 24V, at least 10ah and 20a?

Not sure on Ah needs. My regular battery should be just over 10Ah and 50A, but that's the one I said I would be reluctant to take to the fairgrounds. Hopefully we can learn something more when I get the Watts-Up meter hooked up to a battery in a few days.

[TREA18]

Sounds good. Thanks

[nonoise]

Sounds good. Thanks

Why not get the exact battery Maddog has if it is available? He is happy with his. Even if this experiment works, finding out the correct or honest Ah of battery packs for sale is no easy task.

[TREA18]

Why not get the exact battery Maddog has if it is available? He is happy with his. Even if this experiment works, finding out the correct or honest Ah of battery packs for sale is no easy task.

I was interested in making it removable like the kind you showed. The company I called from California seemed very helpful in finding the right battery if I was confident on my numbers, and I am very interested in maddog's too I just haven't seen it yet. If it becomes too difficult to find the numbers at might go his route. Thanks

[nonoise]

Why not get the exact battery Maddog has if it is available? He is happy with his. Even if this experiment works, finding out the correct or honest Ah of battery packs for sale is no easy task.

I have the new Watts-Up and might have the test battery ready to try tomorrow. Hopefully we will learn something. On your end you could call that supplier and ask how the battery pack you are interested in is constructed. What is relevant is the individual cell mAh. That can be looked up by the coding on the side of the individual cells inside the pack. A photo of the writing would suffice. The second thing to find out and just as important is the arrangement of cells. How many are in series and how many parallel sets are there. That answer would be something like 8SXP. It is the "X" we need to know for the number of parallel rows of 8 series. I say 8 in a series because it takes 8 cells of LifeP04 to make one unit of a 24 volt LifePO4 pack.

[TREA18]

I'll see what I can find out. maddog I have tried to send a message and I don't think you are getting them.??

[nonoise]

I'll see what I can find out. maddog I have tried to send a message and I don't think you are getting them.??

As a minimum if you get the mAh rating of each cell and the total number of cells we can calculate what the battery pack is. Anyway see what they know.

[nonoise]

[QUOTE=nonoise;1881736...Hopefully we can learn something more when I get the Watts-Up meter hooked up to a battery in a few days.[/QUOTE]

This experiment did not go well. Fortunately I used one of my $10 batteries. It may be toast or needs the bms replaced.

Anyway, I was very careful to keep the wiring correct and not get any shorts, took my time to follow directions. Actually it is quite simple you just run the neg side through the meter, battery black to meter and meter black load black (Iglide). The positive red is only a tap wire not a pass through so it can be a lighter gauge. So I built up the battery in an old Iglide battery box with the three wires coming out through a hole. They were encased in shrink wrap just to make them easier to handle. And each had a wire nut on them. The battery was then inserted in the chair. Chair was off, no green light. I repeat the chair was *not* on. I then hooked up one black wire, fine. But touching the second black wire I get a spark! Whoa! That can't be right. I know Watts-Up draws current, but I haven't supplied any yet. Lets try that again. Yep sparks again. Pull the battery. Now hook up the second wire, being the black one, remember the red one is untouched, unconnected during all this. Well there is no spark if the battery is not installed in the Iglide. Later tonight I took the battery all apart to see if I made a mistake, no mistakes. I then checked the battery voltage ... guess what *zero*. Okay I go charge it. It won't charge now either. It beats me exactly what happened. If I feel like it I'll look at the battery to see what is salvageable. Fortunately the Iglide is still working just fine but I never turned it on. I am not so sure I want to try this again though without backups and or more knowledge.

[maddog]

That is odd, don't know why that happened. I have not used mine much but I use 4 wires inline. Red and black source side goes to battery and red and black load goes to chair.

[nonoise]

That is odd, don't know why that happened. I have not used mine much but I use 4 wires inline. Red and black source side goes to battery and red and black load goes to chair.

It seems simple enough. My first one was installed by the bike shop using the three wire method to reduce the wiring from front to back of the trike, and the diagram at that time was not as clear as todays: https://tinyurl.com/y2oksrtn

This morning I thought maybe I had somehow developed a short in the battery box plug, so I tore the thing completely down and checked it out. The plug is good and the rest of the wiring was also good. *But* you are going to laugh at me, the battery voltage now measures 29.2V. I don't know why it came up zero last night, makes no sense. I will probably put it all back together and try again, but this time all the wires will be already hooked up, haven't decided.

I am sure there is a back positive though the Iglide even when it is off because no red wire was connected to the Watts-up when the blacks sparked. It makes me wonder what happens when the battery gets installed to the chair.