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I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

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    Originally posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    Impressive what everyone has been doing to keep their iGlides and Tailwinds going.
    The chair is one of the most reliable things I have ever bought. There is so much junk out there that does not last but these things just keep going. I went through insurance to get a Tailwind in 2014. My old iglide was completely worn out and I desperately needed something new but it took one year for the Tailwind to get approved. During that waiting time I found a unused used iglide and bought it to keep me going until the Tailwind came. I decided to wear out the iglide before going to my new Tailwind, that was 5 years ago. My old iglide is still going strong and the Tailwind is still sitting in the closet.

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      Originally posted by nonoise View Post
      Success, thank you maddog. I don't know why it works, I don't care. This is the third device I've removed the printed circuit board from and had a great outcome. The first was a second smartdrive I picked up cheap, the second was a bathchair that the batteries had corroded the board and now this. I used the same battery box that came with the chair since those were the worst batteries. This time without the battery box printed circuit board the chair performs like they advertise. A soft push translates as a tiny roll, but a good push and the chair moves out. It definitely works better.
      Did you originally hook your lithium battery to the wires that originally went to the nimh cells, running the lithium power through the circuit board? Did this not work? I am thinking that running power this way would help the new tailwind keep the power adjuster working. This is something I never tried but it seems the battery did not work at all for you, is this correct?

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        Originally posted by maddog View Post
        Did you originally hook your lithium battery to the wires that originally went to the nimh cells, running the lithium power through the circuit board? Did this not work? I am thinking that running power this way would help the new tailwind keep the power adjuster working. This is something I never tried but it seems the battery did not work at all for you, is this correct?
        Yes ran it through the circuit board, no go, it would not accept my battery. All I did was try to swap batteries using plus on the lithium to plus in the box where I had cut the wire from the nimh and the same routine with the neg. There is no reason that I know it failed to show on the "gas" gauge or posts 1 and 3. FWIW, both pos and neg from the bat go to the circuit board.

        Edit: NEWS FLASH
        After a couple of years plus posting time this I think I know why no go. The charging voltage of the nimh charger is 28.8. That means the nimh batteries will not reach more than 28.8 volts. It just may be that the battery box printed circuit board has a high voltage detection circuit set to cutoff power above 28.8 volts, commonly called HCV high cutoff voltage. However, my fully charged NCM battery should have 29.2 volts, 0.4 volts more than the nimh's.
        Last edited by nonoise; 26 Jul 2019, 1:01 AM.
        I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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          Ok thanks. I guess removing everything from the inside of the battery is the only option.

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            Originally posted by maddog View Post
            Ok thanks. I guess removing everything from the inside of the battery is the only option.
            Not for your new charger. Look at it's specs: Output Voltage 28.4VDC. I was going to mention it earlier, but did not see it as being a constructive post. 29.2 is the voltage I expected to see as that is what the SD LifeP04 cell charger is. The reason might be is that the thinkers are saying it is best to not charge to full capacity in order to prolong battery life. They also say if you do charge fully up do it right before use. And I also see elsewhere let the battery sit a half hour before use. I mean who you gunna believe. I haven't had any trouble with what I've been doing, fully charging and letting them sit. Oh yeah that is another, store at 60%.
            I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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              Originally posted by maddog View Post
              The chair is one of the most reliable things I have ever bought. My old iglide is still going strong and the Tailwind is still sitting in the closet.
              Want to sell that Tailwind Mad Dog?? Only half joking...I'd consider it if the size was right...

              My daughter has had her Tailwind for four years now. When I got it for her, they said when she grew, there would be a bigger frame available, and we could just switch over all the electronics. I bought new batteries from CRM just before they went out of business, so she's still in good shape as far as that goes...BUT....she's almost too big for the chair now, and I have no clue what to do. She LOVES that chair. I'd love to get another one, slightly bigger, but I'm guessing that's not going to happen. Looking at other power-assist chairs now, but I just don't know if she'll be happy with anything else. She's 14...won't be a happy adjustment...ugh.

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                I am going to keep my Tailwind, probably switch over to it this winter. There is a broken one for sale on ebay that has a good frame, might be too big. I think he is asking too much for what he has but he may sell just the frame for less.

                https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tailwinds-P...IAAOSwf71dSvBe

                If she really likes the tailwind motors you could swap them over to a regular manual chair. Have a machine shop weld mounting brackets on the frame and swap the motors over. It would not be straight forward swap but should not be too hard and would allow her to keep using the tailwind motors.

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                  Originally posted by maddog View Post
                  If she really likes the tailwind motors you could swap them over to a regular manual chair. Have a machine shop weld mounting brackets on the frame and swap the motors over. It would not be straight forward swap but should not be too hard and would allow her to keep using the tailwind motors.
                  Ok, thanks...I'll look into both!

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                    Maddog and Fast Joey, John Box (john@u2mobility.com) is going to switch my motors off my chair working with Colours when I get a backup I can live with (perhaps never???), Be careful doing this stuff, they are tailored to the chair and if dimensions are not right, I think you'll run the risk of destroying the motor (gearing pressure)

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                      TREA18 talked me out of my battery so I sold it to him shortly after I built it. I just built myself another one but decided the box I used before was a little small and made things difficult. I decided to design a new bigger bottom half of the battery in cad and 3d print it myself. It matches up with the top half of the battery box but gives me more depth. If anyone needs a custom bottom let me know and I can send you a STL file for you to have printed or I could print it for you. It makes adding a different battery much easier, everything from the top half of the battery stays like the fuse, etc. I can easily modify the file to any depth you would need, right now the bottom is 2.4" deep.
                      Attached Files

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                        Originally posted by maddog View Post
                        TREA18 talked me out of my battery so I sold it to him shortly after I built it. I just built myself another one but decided the box I used before was a little small and made things difficult. I decided to design a new bigger bottom half of the battery in cad and 3d print it myself. It matches up with the top half of the battery box but gives me more depth. If anyone needs a custom bottom let me know and I can send you a STL file for you to have printed or I could print it for you. It makes adding a different battery much easier, everything from the top half of the battery stays like the fuse, etc. I can easily modify the file to any depth you would need, right now the bottom is 2.4" deep.
                        Well I am impressed. Constructing a new bottom is an excellent idea and you apparently have the skills to do so. Unless I make another battery, which is likely, I am good for the time being. I'm only running a gap of an inch or less with the NCM batteries now. But I am considering running three in parallel which would require an improved box and is the reason I have not done it.
                        I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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                          For the sake of expediency, am I now doomed because I killed my last tailwind battery? I have one that is unreliable because it always cuts ofter I reach the top of inclines (it surges??) and the other went two months without charging (because I fractured my L2, SCI double injury now, C6/L2). Anyway, trying to charge it now = solid red on the converter box. Talk about kicking someone when they are down, this stinks, so bummed and uugh. Lots of mechanical engineers at UCONN, do you guys have the best specs that I could use and see if someone there could rebuild accordingly?

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                            Originally posted by cadamson View Post
                            For the sake of expediency, am I now doomed because I killed my last tailwind battery?...
                            You will be fine. The battery is definitely rebuildable. I have not done a tailwind yet, but several people here including myself have rebuilt the similar I-Glide battery. Maddog may have upgraded a tailwind to lithium, somebody did. What battery chemisty is yours? If your charger output is 28.8V it is a NIMH battery. If your charger output is 29.2V you have a lithium battery. Either way your battery pack can be rebuilt.
                            I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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                              Originally posted by cadamson View Post
                              Anyway, trying to charge it now = solid red on the converter box.
                              If this battery is still good you can revive it fairly easily. Take a 12v charger and put charge to pins 1 and 3 for about a minute. I used a car battery charger and but a nail in the clamps and inserted the negative in pin 1 and positive in pin 3. Don't use a high amp charger or jump box because it may blow the 20A fuse on the battery. You only need a small voltage in the battery for the tailwind charger to read the battery and start charging again.

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                                battery is 24V, the symbol on the battery indicate NiMH. I never got a charger when I bought the tailwind. I still have my two iGlide chargers and used them with my CR tailwind
                                Attached Files

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