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I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

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    Originally posted by maddog View Post
    Watts = volts x amps
    12.45A x 25.5v = 318 watts
    A smart wattmeter would be doing the math in real time, using the actual voltage x current so as to accurately determine "battery capacity used" in Watt-hours.

    At least, that's what I expect. Does the wattmeter have B+ and B- circuit as well as a through-flow/ammeter circuit?
    I run an ammeter/voltmeter on the ZX1 so I can get good info on battery condition, but it would be better to measure actual energy consumed.
    The voltage get's pretty variable, especially as the batteries get used up. The ammeter function is from a coil-ring around one of the main battery cables and there's also B+/B- to power to it as well as provide a voltage signal.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

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      Originally posted by maddog View Post
      Watts = volts x amps
      12.45A x 25.5v = 318 watts
      My battery is currently down to 24.6V. Which by the above, I'll get a shutdown if I try to pull 12.45A tomorrow.
      I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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        Originally posted by pfcs49 View Post
        A smart wattmeter would be doing the math in real time, using the actual voltage x current so as to accurately determine "battery capacity used" in Watt-hours.

        At least, that's what I expect. Does the wattmeter have B+ and B- circuit as well as a through-flow/ammeter circuit?
        I run an ammeter/voltmeter on the ZX1 so I can get good info on battery condition, but it would be better to measure actual energy consumed.
        The voltage get's pretty variable, especially as the batteries get used up. The ammeter function is from a coil-ring around one of the main battery cables and there's also B+/B- to power to it as well as provide a voltage signal.
        It is calculating Watt hours. My little battery is currently down 79.7 Wh. I'm tracking Amp hours. It is supposed to have 4.3 Ah, but has used 3.0 Ah with a current battery voltage of 24.6. I think it will cut out before 4.3. But what can one expect for $10?

        I meant to add this YouTube to try to answer your questions, but it slipped my mind. It's just over a minute long. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPfqE1fhiGE
        Last edited by nonoise; 22 Jul 2019, 1:49 PM. Reason: added YouTube
        I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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          I built a battery and took some pictures during the process, although it looks like I did not take as many pictures as I thought. The battery turned out well but was not easy to build.
          List of supplies
          8 of these https://www.batteryspace.com/high-po...assed-dgr.aspx
          charger https://www.batteryspace.com/smartch...amiyaplug.aspx
          Bluetooth bms 8s lifepo4 30A https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/pr...tion-function/
          Box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
          xt60 connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
          xt60 connector mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
          Silicone wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

          I started with an old battery and took everything out and cut it down to just the top and plug. I only needed this to interface with the chair. It looked like this when cut. I also ground off the top half of the back of the plug.
          Attached Files

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            Then I took the box and ground of the small round areas in the bottom. I also removed one of the middle post that holds the lid down. This will leave you with 5 screws to hold the lid. You have to remove the post to make room for the battery cells. The other middle post we taped to the side wall and filled the area between the wall and post with epoxy. After the epoxy dried we cut a hole that matched the plug. Epoxying the post to the wall allows you to save that post because it is mostly attached at the bottom and that area will be removed for the plug. I also cut out an area to the side of the plug for the 2 red and black wires.
            Attached Files

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              Next solder the cells together with all the bms wires along with the heavier + and - wires on the ends. They are all connected in series. I covered the tabs with liquid electrical tape.
              Attached Files

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                Then we glued and bolted the old battery box top to the new box to look like this. We also drilled a round hole to mount the charge wire. This hole needs to be exact because there is very little room behind the battery cells.
                Attached Files

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                  Next stuff everything in the box. The cells sit toward the back by the handle. The bms sits in front of the cells sitting on that notch that was cut out of the plug, the green area in the picture above. The wires and everything else stuff in there where ever you have room. I also put in the original flush mount fuse to to have external access to the fuse. This was a pain and I would suggest just putting in an inline automotive style fuse in the box. I have never blown a fuse and it is not something that needs regular access. I could not use the supplied screws that came with the xt60 mount because they were long and would have hit the battery cells. We drilled the three holes and screwed in small sheet metal screws and then ground them off flush with the inside of the box. With the charge plug in the back you can charge without removing the battery from the chair. I wish I had taken better pictures.
                  Attached Files

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                    Final product.
                    10ah lifepo4 bluetooth battery.
                    weighs 6.75lbs vs 7.5lbs original tailwind battery.
                    Attached Files

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                      Originally posted by maddog View Post
                      Final product.
                      10ah lifepo4 bluetooth battery.
                      weighs 6.75lbs vs 7.5lbs original tailwind battery.
                      Dang, you could sell these! I like NCM chemistry, but this is tempting. When did you complete this battery pack? I remember a red stick pack photo you had. I guess it was/is for your I-glide. But you said this is for the Tailwind. Speaking of which, it all looks the same as an Iglide to me. We have a member here who toward the end of Clinton River's reign got told by them that they could not purchase any more batteries for the Iglide because Clinton had changed the plug configuration. Looks like a lie to me from here.
                      I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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                        I don't know if the tailwind battery was ever changed but mine was one of the first tailwinds made in 2014 and the battery is the same as iglide. They may have made changes later.
                        I just built that battery. I did find out that the tailwind needs more than just the positive and negative wires. The chair turns on and off but does not show any lights after it goes though its startup. I thought the battery gauge on the chair would show full charge but it shows nothing. The power adjuster also only works on one side. This is not a big deal as I push on the wheels to tell if it is on and I don't ever change the power settings.

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                          One other thing that may make this simpler would be to get Battery Space to spot wield the battery and wires to 24v before they ship.

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                            It looks like they gone from "might as well be out of business" to "officially out of business". No more website. Impressive what everyone has been doing to keep their iGlides and Tailwinds going.

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                              I got a Tailwind battery a little over a year ago and it has the same plug? However that battery is the most frustrating battery I have owned. Not reliable on the charger and in use once it is below half you never know when it will just completely fall on it's face blinking red.

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                                The Tailwind batteries are 8.4ah vs iglide 5.6ah battery. In the past I have rebuilt those batteries with 10ah nimh cells and they worked ok at best. I think you lose reliability and longevity with higher ah cells. My 10ah nimh battery worked great for a few months and then went downhill fast. The original iglide batteries were pretty good just not quite enough ah to get me through a full day.
                                I built a 60 cell vs original 40 cell nimh battery with good 3ah Saft batteries that gave the pack 9ah. It was heavy but worked well.

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