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Is my chair heavy?

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    #31
    Originally posted by August West View Post
    I need 16" width. Adjusting the threaded axle shaft +0.5" on each side of the camber tube provides the 16" width. But I still have a 15" wide frame so that saves some weight.
    Yeah, I actually do the same thing, space my camber plugs and sideguards out a bit and use a 16" cushion on a 15" frame.

    I liked the old Quickie Ti. Wish they still made it. Was the lightest available, by a pretty wide margin, at the time. I liked how they itemized all the weights on the last page of their old order forms, too.

    http://marketing.sunrisemedical.com/...ember_2005.pdf
    "I have great faith in fools; self-confidence my friends call it." - Edgar Allen Poe

    "If you only know your side of an issue, you know nothing." -John Stuart Mill, On Liberty

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      #32
      I remeasured both Quickie Ti and TiLite TR frames on a much better quality scale. My previous measurements are accurate.

      Quickie Ti frame weighs 11.8 lbs.
      TiLite TR frame weighs 12.6 lbs.

      The difference of 0.8 lbs would be less if I took off the rigid back hardware from the backposts on the TiLite. But it still feels like a big difference on my shoulder when moving it across my chest from the car's driver side to passenger side with an extended arm. I am reconsidering my previous statement about hardware options not adding up to much difference. On a scale the difference between titanium and aluminum options may be small. But in practice, that small difference feels much greater on the shoulder when levered.
      Last edited by August West; 26 Jan 2017, 11:19 PM.

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        #33
        Originally posted by August West View Post
        I need 16" width. Adjusting the threaded tube +0.5" on each side of the camber tube provides the 16" width. But I still have a 15" wide frame so that saves some weight.
        This will increase the moment on the 15" frame. The right size 16" frame could actually be made lighter and stronger.

        A camber of zero degrees is best for getting through doorways. I took the camber off my old rigid frame chair for that very reason.
        http://zagam.net/

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          #34
          Originally posted by zagam View Post
          This will increase the moment on the 15" frame. The right size 16" frame could actually be made lighter and stronger.

          A camber of zero degrees is best for getting through doorways. I took the camber off my old rigid frame chair for that very reason.
          I have zero camber as well for the same reason. How can you add 1" to the frame and still make it lighter? The only way would be to decrease the tube thickness. Do they do that?

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            #35
            Originally posted by August West View Post
            I have zero camber as well for the same reason. How can you add 1" to the frame and still make it lighter? The only way would be to decrease the tube thickness. Do they do that?
            May be not, but the 1" wider frame will be a lot stronger. Having wheels over track puts more load on the axle mounting plate and the tube to which that plate is attached.

            Many manufacturers have chairs rated for different user weights. If you put the wheels over the track design limit then those limits do lot apply and some lower limit does.

            The lower weight limit chairs may use thinner tube wall thickness or less reinforcing such as no gusset plates on joints.

            If you get the right size then get one just a bit over your weight to allow for banging around, etc. I weigh 110kg, but ordered a 140kg model which weighs more for durability.

            My chair came in 2cm increments and was made to order. I use an 18" x 18" cushion with 46cm x 46cm seat.

            My rigid frame chair is a bit bigger and I run the wheels as close as I can to the frame, the sling seat centres me. (Buckled wheels, which is nothing to with frame setup so I need to get around to ordering replacement wheels before I break my current chair. The frame is still good and its lighter than my current folder.)
            http://zagam.net/

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              #36
              Originally posted by Oddity View Post
              I liked how they itemized all the weights on the last page of their old order forms, too.

              http://marketing.sunrisemedical.com/...ember_2005.pdf
              Huh, look at that! Looks like someone needs a new scale, because the numbers sure don't add up?

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                #37
                Originally posted by jschism View Post
                Huh, look at that! Looks like someone needs a new scale, because the numbers sure don't add up?
                Stop embarrassing yourself. Everything adds up.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Night_Owl View Post
                  Hi, I've just weighed it's and it weighs 24lb all in, adding the cushion it weighs 27lb, it seems heavy to me loading it into the car. It's an aluminium adjustable chair with quite a long frame because my knees no longer bend properly (70 degree frame angle). It's got wire wheels with MP tyres and a plywood seatpan, although the plywood is quite thin @ 5.5mm (not what sure that is in imperial?).

                  Although I can't afford something like a Tilite TR, if I could would it be very much lighter?
                  i think if you got rid of the folding mechanism it would make a big difference, also i would only really weigh the chair with no cushion or wheels on as thats when it makes a big difference ie lifting it in and out of the car, ive just bought a new chair i had/have a tr3 with folding back and my new rgk sub4 is over half the weight of my tr3 its unreal, it comes with a certified weight from production, mines is 3.90 kg 15 x 16 aluminium, i guess it wont be as strong as my tr3 but im not very heavy or rough with my chairs so dont really need titanium, you would be amazed on how the little things make up the weight like bolts for the folding part etc, i tried a cf seat pan once and it made my chair pretty heavy i would say, the tr seat sling is good imo, why did you go plywood? marathon tyre do make the wheels heavy compared to the schwalbe ones, heres a pic of mine the parts that would normally be steel were all made titanium all screws and bolts etc even the eyelets for the seat sling.
                  Attached Files

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                    #39
                    Looks nice rAdGie.
                    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Brianm View Post
                      Looks nice rAdGie.
                      Indeed. Can't beat a fully welded frame for weight savings.
                      "I have great faith in fools; self-confidence my friends call it." - Edgar Allen Poe

                      "If you only know your side of an issue, you know nothing." -John Stuart Mill, On Liberty

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Thanks, i even went for the heavier option leather for the backrest as i wanted comfort as it was already really light, but its tough going when you already have an adjustable chair and trying to make it lighter, i would like to make my tr3 which is now my spare chair have a fixed backrest but i wouldnt know where to begin, that bracket etc for the folding parting must make up some weight, stupid thing is i dont fold it down and have only altered the backrest angle 2 times in 5 years :P i guess were talking welding the down tubes and getting rid of the folding part?

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