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MPD Hand Control Adjustments?

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    MPD Hand Control Adjustments?

    I'm having an issue with my new van and the MPD hand controls. I thought at first that it was because the van just had more get-up-and-go than my previous vans, but now I'm thinking the main problem is resistance as I start to press down for the accelerator, like it's caught on something then once it gets past a couple centimeters, I end up pushing too hard because of the force needed to get past that initial resistance. It does have more power than my old vans, but I'm thinking (hoping) my main problem is the hand cintrols needing to be adjusted a bit.

    I've always used this type of control, MPD, driving since 1996, and I was always able to get a smooth acceleration without a lot of downward force. It's especially frustrating and disconcerting when trying to leave from a light without jerking forward, and worse when leaving my apartment building's garage which has a very steep ramp. Do any of you guys know if it's something that can be adjusted? I'm driving a Dodge Grand Caravan by the way. I'm going to have a friend try it both with the hand controls and the foot pedal to compare/contrast. The MobilityWorks in Pasadena, where I bought it and had everything installed, has more experience with Monarch controls, so I'm concerned that the young techs didn't adjust them correctly. I actually had to point out and explain how they could adjust the resting position of the knob by adjusting the main shaft in toward the dash, thus moving the fulcrum point in, giving me more leverage when braking. The guy was convinced he was going to have to completely relocate the brake shaft and cut a new hole in the dashboard. :sigh:

    Anyway, I've been Googling, but there's not a lot of info at all out there.
    Last edited by Scorpion; 16 Aug 2015, 8:38 AM.

    #2
    Sounds like they made simply need lubricated. There is a small pin/pivot that could be causing this. Get a can of spray silicone or WD40 and spray that.

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      #3
      Originally posted by parashooter View Post
      Sounds like they made simply need lubricated. There is a small pin/pivot that could be causing this. Get a can of spray silicone or WD40 and spray that.
      I was thinking the same thing. Use silicone or white lithium grease not WD40. Also they might be installed wrong and are binding just enough to cause you the stiction/release problem.

      Comment


        #4
        Hmmm, maybe. But even though they're brand new?

        It also sticks a bit when I let off the gas and it doesn't spring all the way back up into the default position easily (sticking a bit at the end of the motion), so maybe that's it. I think the issue being simple lubrication needed would make me feel better than something haven't been tightened too much here or not tightened enough there.

        Thanks, guys. I'll look to see if I can get to it to lube it up. And yeah, I was thinking white lithium grease instead of WD40.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Scorpion View Post
          Hmmm, maybe. But even though they're brand new?

          It also sticks a bit when I let off the gas and it doesn't spring all the way back up into the default position easily (sticking a bit at the end of the motion), so maybe that's it. I think the issue being simple lubrication needed would make me feel better than something haven't been tightened too much here or not tightened enough there.

          Thanks, guys. I'll look to see if I can get to it to lube it up. And yeah, I was thinking white lithium grease instead of WD40.
          sounds like throttle return spring for the arm. its on the mounting body under the dash, it brings throttle arm back to neutral. have an ab pop it loose, easy if they can get to it, see if that smooths it out. may just need new lighter spring.
          Bike-on.com rep
          John@bike-on.com
          c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
          sponsored handcycle racer

          Comment


            #6
            Bring them back for a adjustment and post a pic of how there installed.

            Someone at there shop should be able to get them squared away for you.

            Jim
            Jim, MA, MMET
            Bridgewater, MA

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              #7
              I have had MPD not a problem but I did have a prob with twist grip hand controls made by a different company. Same symptoms, a lag and a hangup but the problem was around a vacuum feed not properly hooked to the intake. As far as the MPD I would try and make sure the prob is not with the van then if its in the handcontrols I would ask someone to see if they could check is the return spring working or did one become unhooked and maybe lube the pivot points of the handcontrols.

              Comment


                #8
                They got something binding somewere. Everybody in such a big dam hurry on something crucial as this. They should have test driven it before giving it to you in case there was a problem. They give this job to the newbess to get them started and nobody checks there work. On my S10 they hand something binding....I fixed it myself...took me 8 hours to get it right they messed it up so bad.
                Art

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                  #9
                  If it's hanging up on the return, something is borked up with the install with the levers or rod hitting something. Pics will definitely help here, but take it back to them for maybe the 2nd time around being the charm. Make sure they don't introduce excessive angularity to the gas lever when adjusting the setup, that can also make things hard to initiate. But it does become an art form of sorts adapting hand controls for fine-tuned operation, and I have yet to see a commercial installation that didn't make me gag. YMMV.

                  Also, you might want to check this out and maybe have someone mechanically inclined do same...really, really, makes the gas nice:

                  http:///forum/showthread.php?221348-...=1#post1683211

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks, guys.

                    I haven't messed with it today, but after thinking about it and the other responses here, I'm pretty sure it's not a lubrication issue. It's binding up somewhere, or something's up with the return spring. I've driven a van years ago after that spring broke off, so that might be a temporary fix until I can get it back into the shop. They might balk at that though, and admonish about "authorized persons only" making any adjustments. Hah.

                    I'll report back later.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Andy View Post
                      If it's hanging up on the return, something is borked up with the install with the levers or rod hitting something. Pics will definitely help here, but take it back to them for maybe the 2nd time around being the charm. Make sure they don't introduce excessive angularity to the gas lever when adjusting the setup, that can also make things hard to initiate. But it does become an art form of sorts adapting hand controls for fine-tuned operation, and I have yet to see a commercial installation that didn't make me gag. YMMV.

                      Also, you might want to check this out and maybe have someone mechanically inclined do same...really, really, makes the gas nice:

                      https://www.carecure.net/forum/showt...=1#post1683211
                      Andy's comments are right on. It amazes me how many "technicians" are not mechanics! There is a lot of sophistry within these seemingly simple implements (the linkages and arms of hand controls) that many installers are clueless about, like the angularity he mentions. If the throttle rod meets a bell crank that is near over-center, the initial effort will be multiplied; if it meets it ~90* the effort will be the least. I got present to this this a long time ago working on British throttle cables and SU setups. If the intersection of the cable and the arm was very acute, you ended up with a touchy throttle that was easy to floorboard; 90* and very controllable off idle and you had to really push to floorboard it.
                      I had a friend bring his S6 to me (www.philscars.com) to look at his brakes. His brakes were fine but the asshats at the major NJ mobility center had installed it so you couldn't lock the brakes if you tried; the control would hit the dash!
                      Whenever I set up controls, my starting point is to set the motion ratio so that the control can floorboard the brake pedal if ever necessary (as in partial brake failure) as well as activate the ABS on dry roads, and if that results in too sensitive "pedal", move the brake pushrod out further on the control to tailor it to your liking.
                      Likewise, WOT (wide open throttle) needs to be achievable without the control dissecting you thigh. Without screwing with the vehicle's throttle springs, this is often problematic, and results in a heavy throttle pressure. Cruise control is your friend. Or you might try this:
                      Hand control for newer vehicles with electronic throttles
                      Last edited by pfcs49; 17 Aug 2015, 3:51 PM.
                      69yo male T12 complete since 1995
                      NW NJ

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                        #12
                        Hey Russ, been awhile, you sure move around a lot! If you can't get it squared away post some pics, as noted a lot of the "Techs" that install these are clueless.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          pfcs49 - Thanks for the reply. That's a cool setup you've made, but something like that wouldn't work for me as a quad.

                          The throttle pressure once moving isn't too bad (and I can't turn on cruise control myself anyway using a tri-pin steering knob), but getting it to move initially is hugely problematic. I'm taking it in Friday for adjustments, hoping it's an easy fix. I've been driving 20 years, and I've never felt this uncomfortable trying to drive at slow speeds or start out without accelerating too fast. California is more hilly than I'm used to, to say nothing of the stop-and-go traffic, so that makes this even worse.

                          Rustyjames - Hey, dude! Yeah, I was in South Florida for about 5 years, then Denver for 5 years, now in Los Angeles for about 6 months so far. Who knows where I'll end up next. I hate the cold, but I do like Chicago and New York City...

                          I'll try to post some pix tomorrow or Wednesday, just to see if any of you guys can see something I might be missing.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Scorpion View Post
                            pfcs49 - Thanks for the reply. That's a cool setup you've made, but something like that wouldn't work for me as a quad.

                            The throttle pressure once moving isn't too bad (and I can't turn on cruise control myself anyway using a tri-pin steering knob), but getting it to move initially is hugely problematic. I'm taking it in Friday for adjustments, hoping it's an easy fix. I've been driving 20 years, and I've never felt this uncomfortable trying to drive at slow speeds or start out without accelerating too fast. California is more hilly than I'm used to, to say nothing of the stop-and-go traffic, so that makes this even worse.

                            Rustyjames - Hey, dude! Yeah, I was in South Florida for about 5 years, then Denver for 5 years, now in Los Angeles for about 6 months so far. Who knows where I'll end up next. I hate the cold, but I do like Chicago and New York City...

                            I'll try to post some pix tomorrow or Wednesday, just to see if any of you guys can see something I might be missing.
                            i'd like to see your install as well since im going back to mpd in my full size. you and I function the same
                            Bike-on.com rep
                            John@bike-on.com
                            c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                            sponsored handcycle racer

                            Comment


                              #15
                              When you bring it in, have the tech disconnect the linkage at the accelerator pedal and then move the control like you would if you were accelerating/driving. This could help determine if the 'binding' is in the pedal or the hand control.

                              Just a suggestion.
                              Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

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