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    Just in case anyone wants to see what the proximity sensor looks like, this is the page from the Lithium Battery Conversion Manual.
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    Last edited by elarson; 18 Sep 2018, 11:49 AM.
    Partner of an incredible stroke survivor. Limitations: hemiparesis and neglect (functional paralysis and complete lack of awareness on one side). Equipment: TiLite ZRA 2 and 2GX, Spinergy ZX-1, RioMobility Firefly. Knowledge: relative newbie for high-level equipment (2012), but willing to try to help others who are new with similar limitations (definitely not a guru, but inquisitive).

    Comment


      Originally posted by fuentejps View Post
      the stop bolts stop you from going to high.
      I've removed the bolt on sensor's side, and tighten the other bolt to the max. The sensor isn't unplugged actually, but out of range. No crawl mode !
      C6-7 since mid 2002, no hand control nor triceps.
      my website & my job (in France): Accessibility advisor www.acceslibre.eu
      Also working on a French research about Peer counseling and Empowerment.

      Comment


        Does anyone have a PDF of the Lithium Battery Conversion Manual they can post? I like having an electronic version, especially when we travel. Thanks in advance.
        Partner of an incredible stroke survivor. Limitations: hemiparesis and neglect (functional paralysis and complete lack of awareness on one side). Equipment: TiLite ZRA 2 and 2GX, Spinergy ZX-1, RioMobility Firefly. Knowledge: relative newbie for high-level equipment (2012), but willing to try to help others who are new with similar limitations (definitely not a guru, but inquisitive).

        Comment


          The ZX-1 joystick. Does it have two or just a single method of speed control adjustment? And a question for users that programmed their speed options, before and after, well worth it?

          Asking for the individual that purchased the ZX-1 from me. I didn't use it and so don't remember well. Hoping there aren't issues.

          Thank you in advance.

          Comment


            i just unplugged it and ziptied to frame.
            Originally posted by robotnik View Post
            I've removed the bolt on sensor's side, and tighten the other bolt to the max. The sensor isn't unplugged actually, but out of range. No crawl mode !
            Bike-on.com rep
            John@bike-on.com
            c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
            sponsored handcycle racer

            Comment


              i prefer my settings, less twitchy.
              Originally posted by NorthQuad View Post
              The ZX-1 joystick. Does it have two or just a single method of speed control adjustment? And a question for users that programmed their speed options, before and after, well worth it?

              Asking for the individual that purchased the ZX-1 from me. I didn't use it and so don't remember well. Hoping there aren't issues.

              Thank you in advance.
              Bike-on.com rep
              John@bike-on.com
              c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
              sponsored handcycle racer

              Comment


                My ZX-1 runs at high speed mode regardless of the LED speed indicator. Changing the speed range on the control has no discernable effect. There have been a couple of suggestions to reprogram the control. Since I bought this ZX-1 second-hand, I don?t have a dealer to fall back on. I have two joystick modules that behave identically. How does one get a programmer?

                The linear actuator jammed in the full extension position. It would move neither in nor out and just made a click when I moved the joystick. We finally drove out the fastpin freeing up that linkage and then the actuator worked fine. It worked fine upon reassembly also. How do I prevent a reoccurrence of this?

                What to do about the air shock. Question of what's the proper air pressure for the air shock and whether I need pressure there at all or just lock it out as some people have done. Also, the air fill Schrader valve on the shock runs up against the gearbox disengagement lever with a lot of force. Neither one of them has broken yet, that we know of. It's a Fusion shock.02 rl


                The seller may have never experienced these issues because the ZX-1 was set up for 26" wheels. The first thing I did was reconfigure it for 24" wheels. That was a straightforward move of three bolts. I think I did it correctly.

                Thanks for any help. I?m really looking forward to using this.

                Comment


                  endo_aftermath, I'm so sorry you're having issues with the ZX-1 I sold you. I can't believe it locked up on you. I didn't experience these issues with it. May be a silly question but the actuator jamming, are the bolts you reconfigured too tight? Just a thought, I'm sure you've thought of that though. This really bothers me.

                  If you don't get answers I'll contact Spinergy if you haven't. I want to get this figured out for you.

                  If anyone can help endo_aftermath please consider, he's a good person.

                  Comment


                    Endo, I've already configured my ZX-1 from 24" to 25" and then 24" again without any issue, I'm pretty sure, as you said, that it's only a matter of bolts and nothing else. If your ZX doesn't work fine after this setting, it's just a coincidence and you'll have to search the answer in the electric/electronic parts, more than elsewhere. But may be if the unit didn't serve for a while, is there some parts a bit stuck ?
                    The airshock isn'nt the main part of the clamshell. In fact, it could be replaced with a simple stud without a change. I don't remember exactly, but I think mine doesn't have any, or minimal pressure, and is locked. I'm going to swap it with a rod ASAP, as I have the use for the shock on my handbike
                    I don't have your issue with the Shrader valve ? Can you post a pict about that ?
                    I believe the ZX-1 is a pretty strong and reliable device. I have mine since 2015, I use it more or less everyday without any issue (exept two or three cutoff after overloaded), you just have to put this one all in order and yes, maybe there's a bit of work but after that you'll be done.
                    C6-7 since mid 2002, no hand control nor triceps.
                    my website & my job (in France): Accessibility advisor www.acceslibre.eu
                    Also working on a French research about Peer counseling and Empowerment.

                    Comment


                      I have one of Pat's original model ZX-1. It's a bit older but no problems to speak of other than not getting much mileage out of a battery charge. I bought this with my own money as it wasn't FDA approved then. Now that it is, my insurance will pay for a new one if I want. Other than the Lithium battery upgrade, is there much of a difference between Pat's models and Spinergy's? I don't want to get a new one if they aren't up to the standards of Pat's. And Spinergy has not been a favorite of mine for customer service so am reluctant to deal with them.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by endo_aftermath View Post
                        My ZX-1 runs at high speed mode regardless of the LED speed indicator. Changing the speed range on the control has no discernable effect. There have been a couple of suggestions to reprogram the control. Since I bought this ZX-1 second-hand, I don?t have a dealer to fall back on. I have two joystick modules that behave identically. How does one get a programmer?
                        I think any durable medical place that services powerchairs should be able to reprogram it with a handheld dealer type programmer for you. If that doesn't work and you can do without it for a week, you could send me your Controller and I will program it to my settings.

                        The linear actuator jammed in the full extension position. It would move neither in nor out and just made a click when I moved the joystick. We finally drove out the fastpin freeing up that linkage and then the actuator worked fine. It worked fine upon reassembly also. How do I prevent a reoccurrence of this?
                        Never had this happen. There are internal limit switches that control the stroke. Maybe during shipping or handling it was somehow forced passed one.

                        What to do about the air shock. Question of what's the proper air pressure for the air shock and whether I need pressure there at all or just lock it out as some people have done. Also, the air fill Schrader valve on the shock runs up against the gearbox disengagement lever with a lot of force. Neither one of them has broken yet, that we know of. It's a Fusion shock.02 rl

                        http://www.xfusionshox.com/images/pd...Setupguide.pdf

                        I keep mine locked out.

                        The seller may have never experienced these issues because the ZX-1 was set up for 26" wheels. The first thing I did was reconfigure it for 24" wheels. That was a straightforward move of three bolts. I think I did it correctly.
                        3 bolts plus the front anti-tilt wheel needs to be moved up 2 holes on the fork.
                        pat@beachmobility.com

                        Comment


                          Thanks for all the responses. I'm putting together some observations and pics to respond.

                          Comment


                            Totally worth it. But only frob the forward speed, I played around with the rotational speed and almost flew out of my chair.

                            Originally posted by NorthQuad View Post
                            The ZX-1 joystick. Does it have two or just a single method of speed control adjustment? And a question for users that programmed their speed options, before and after, well worth it?

                            Asking for the individual that purchased the ZX-1 from me. I didn't use it and so don't remember well. Hoping there aren't issues.

                            Thank you in advance.

                            Comment


                              once you get everything dialed u will love it. ive had mine for a year now and love it. i have had zero issues with spinergies quality on these. im a dealer so i have dealt with them on several customer purchases, no issues.
                              Bike-on.com rep
                              John@bike-on.com
                              c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
                              sponsored handcycle racer

                              Comment


                                My wife had a serious hear attack a week ago Monday and was released from hospital this past Tuesday, so I dropped this ball.
                                Today her daughter and husband came for the weekend so I finally had a spotter to see how it would do in our hilly and bumpy yard.
                                It was encouraging. I was concerned about a lateral flip with the reduced track of the zx but I think it's low weight counterbalances that (pun 100% intentional and makes it pretty stable.
                                I got stuck on the steep muddy run up to our generator so I will get knobbies. The ones the mfr sells are damn nice looking and very aggressive, but they want $200pr #329
                                The ones Pat recommends are $168pr http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/3...ead-kenda.html
                                Before I buy some, can anyone show me something similar to the $200 pair for much cheaper?

                                The volt/ammeter setup works well. On speed 5 up the steep road in front of our home, I pulled 38A at max speed.
                                Originally I had wired it to a Neutix connector so I could disable it when parked, but tonight I wanted to charge batteries. Since I have lead/acid batteries and a charger clearly marked for LiIon, I wanted to be able to easily monitor the voltage while charging, so I dissected the joystick and hard-wired it into that. The kill switch/battery disconnect is so accessible that it's simple enough to just flick the whole machine of when not charging/not using. The bright display is a blatant reminder that you haven't switched off. The display draws 20mA when left on, so not a big deal. It also shows the charging current! Nice benefit.
                                69yo male T12 complete since 1995
                                NW NJ

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