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    Tried out my lithium batteries on approximately 2.2 mile round trip trail I go on. By the time I was finished the battery charge showed only one green light off, then it popped back on when I was in my van. When I would do this trail with the original batteries I would be down all green lights and about one or two orange lights - and starting to worry about completing the trail. My goal is to do at least a 5 mile trail with no worries.
    At times on the trail I would set speed at full power, and it seemed that one green light would pop off, then on again when I reduced speed. Guess that means at full speed for this whole trail, the battery would start to go down sooner?
    I still have on the 'snow tires' for zx1 that I got last Fall from Monster tire. The trail near home has stones and dirt in parking lot and about 50 feet of that to get to paved trail.
    Wondering if the slick tires would be better to extend battery charge, but don't know if they can take that parking lot.

    Comment


      Originally posted by takenaback View Post
      Are they are Spinergy product, the nylon tapered ones that is? I can't remember where I saw them. Have about half inch space between my seat posts and the armrests should this be otherwise? I don't think they are a problem for my actuator woes as I'm not the only person to experience this. My distributor has written to Spinergy with his concerns of the problem independent of my input. I have the split shaft collars positioned just so my wheels don't rub the side of the ZX1 handles but they never impact the clamshell closing as I am far used to judging it correctly. By the way with the "actuator end Force" set to 2 the actuator will give up closing if it encounters resistance. I have it perfectly set for myself so having the computer controlling software and USB cable has proved to be invaluable. Of course this is other than being able to change settings you wish to. I wouldn't be surprised if I have caused damage to the actuator by being in moving vehicles but I'm not giving up using the buses that's for sure. I think I saw it in the manual that you aren't supposed to do this but that would severely impact on my life quality.
      Using the controller?s end stop setting is not meant to control the actuators stroke. It?s there to prevent circuit overload in case of an obstruction. It??s not very precise as you probably know. To do what you want correctly you need to just add an external micro limit switch to the frame that gets triggered when you get to the height you want. In fact you already have a bracket on your frame where your crawl mode proximity sensor switch was. You could even use that switch if I?m not mistaken, a bit overkill, by just wiring it through the actuator wire that is getting current while extending.

      On another matter I received today my two spare ZX1 motors from motion Tech in Taiwan for $82 US a piece plus postage of course. Just thought I would share this with ZX1 owners to save them a few dollars if there motor/gearboxes ever die. I have gone through one already but I do use the ZX1 extensively. It's a bit scary when one of the gearboxes starts locking up but hopefully I am the only one to have experienced this.

      Cheers
      I don't think you did could have caused the gearbox to lockup by using it extensively. The most likely cause is due to the use of the wrong length mounting bolt(s). The motor is attached to the frame using 6 stainless steel bolts that thread directly into the cast aluminum gearbox. The 3 inner bolts are directly over the gearbox internals with only a small amount of space between the bottom of the threaded hole and the interior of the gearbox. The 3 outer bolts are longer than the three inner ones. If one of these got switched and torqued down tight it would break through the gearbox casing send shards of metal into the gearbox without you even knowing. Once they work there way into the gears the gearbox will lockup. This would also happen if someone decided to remove the camber plates that are between the motors and the frame and reinstall the same bolts that they took out.



      pat@beachmobility.com

      Comment


        Originally posted by pattherat View Post
        Using the controller?s end stop setting is not meant to control the actuators stroke. It?s there to prevent circuit overload in case of an obstruction. It??s not very precise as you probably know. To do what you want correctly you need to just add an external micro limit switch to the frame that gets triggered when you get to the height you want. In fact you already have a bracket on your frame where your crawl mode proximity sensor switch was. You could even use that switch if I?m not mistaken, a bit overkill, by just wiring it through the actuator wire that is getting current while extending.


        Yes I'm not trying to control the actuator stroke anymore just trying to protect it. The one I have in is still a Firgelli but I have one from progressiveautomations with a 7.55 inch minimum stroke (hole to hole) and a 10 inch maximum stroke. It will definitely hit its limit switches.
        http://www.progressiveautomations.co...inear-actuator
        It's a custom-made stroke which includes a 24 V option and as you can see it's a higher poundage. Only testing would tell if it is a sturdier option but I can't be bothered getting someone to swap out a perfectly operational actuator.
        I am going to persist with the Firgelli until it fails but hopefully that won't happen for a long time.


        I don't think you did could have caused the gearbox to lockup by using it extensively. The most likely cause is due to the use of the wrong length mounting bolt(s). The motor is attached to the frame using 6 stainless steel bolts that thread directly into the cast aluminum gearbox. The 3 inner bolts are directly over the gearbox internals with only a small amount of space between the bottom of the threaded hole and the interior of the gearbox. The 3 outer bolts are longer than the three inner ones. If one of these got switched and torqued down tight it would break through the gearbox casing send shards of metal into the gearbox without you even knowing. Once they work there way into the gears the gearbox will lockup. This would also happen if someone decided to remove the camber plates that are between the motors and the frame and reinstall the same bolts that they took out.
        It's not the wrong length mounting bolt in fact I can't be absolutely sure it is the gearbox itself or the motor but first it started labouring in reverse, sometimes working sometimes not and this went on for a while before it started grabbing going forwards. This would pull the ZX1 sideways as you can imagine. I haven't pulled it apart but I just suspected it was a gear grabbing but it could be the motor itself. The longer mounting bolts were installed correctly when I swapped the motors over. It was the initial one installed by Spinergy. Maybe if I am bored I will take it apart to inspect.

        Without the shaft collars on the camber tube not only would the tyre rub against the arm of the ZX1 but this would cause the wheel not to spin and when it scraped on one particular side it would try to pull the chair to that side as you can imagine so that's why I consider some sort of self centring device desirable for me.

        Comment


          The firgelli claims 240 lb, the progressive 330 lb. I see little benefit even if the claim is true. Other than the shaft enclosure they look virtually identical. Maybe you could do a test.
          The 2 1/2" stroke will probably get you to the height you like but I don't understand why you don't just let go of the joystick instead.

          If you do get the chance, it's only 3 more bolts to remove the gearbox cover. I'd be interested in hearing what you find. If it is a gearbox save the motor part incase you need it in the future.

          I think you might be better off either adjusting your armrests in a little or further back rather than use shaft collars, but if you're happy with them...
          pat@beachmobility.com

          Comment


            Yes they do seem very similar and only time will tell whether the extra poundage gave any benefit at all. If their claims are true one would think 330 lb would be sturdier, anyway I'm treating the current actuator like a baby so hopefully I won't be in need of changing very soon. Yes the 2 1/2 in stroke will be perfect for my purposes as I put quite a bit of time into measuring. I do let go of the joystick just at the point of being able to turn the wheelchair wheels so I don't go up into that range where there is no reachable end limit switch on the Firgelli very often. Sometimes you need to go up there to try and get out of certain situations and I will feel more comfortable knowing that I hit an end limit switch when I eventually do change. Of course the other thing is Firgelli don't offer a 24 V option in a 3 inch stroke from memory and progressiveautomations do but we will see what Spinergy do in the future.

            Next time I have spare carer time I will have a look inside the gearbox but will certainly keep spare parts that's for sure as I plan on using the ZX1 for a long time yet. So I will keep you informed of that one.

            I've gotta tell you Pat I have given my ZX1 an absolute hiding, it's a pity there is no odometer. I was going through AGM batteries every three months but I do weigh 80 kg. The AGM batteries were are a problem for me as I had to really nurse it home at times and live with the constant worry that I may not get there. Generally stopping for a little bit, travelling a little bit and stopping again saw me home in the end but having the lithium ion's fitted has been a game changer. I have measured it on flat services and I can get just over 10 km which is plenty for me but well short of the claims from Spinergy, in fact the claims of 5 miles with AGM batteries in my setup was unattainable. I originally had battery connectivity issues that would send the ZX1 into safe mode with the retrofit lithium ion BMS coming into play. It was an absolute pain in the backside and took me ages to work out, it was only when I had one red light flashing which was indicating a connection problem that I tightened all the spade connectors. Now it's great and I am doing just over 10 km/h in fifth speed on flat surfaces. I have individual profiles as you would probably have guessed.

            Anyway I'll keep you informed.

            Cheers

            This message was composed using voice recognition, there may be mistakes.

            Comment


              I agree an odometer should be standard on all power chairs. There is a measure of use though. You mentioned you have a mobility pc programmer from pgdt...go to Tools-->Timers and it'll tell you how many hours you've logged on your controller.
              pat@beachmobility.com

              Comment


                Originally posted by pattherat View Post
                I agree an odometer should be standard on all power chairs. There is a measure of use though. You mentioned you have a mobility pc programmer from pgdt...go to Tools-->Timers and it'll tell you how many hours you've logged on your controller.
                Only 592 hours. When it says controller it is talking about the VR2 power module isn't it? It's not talking about the joystick controller is it? I replaced the joystick controller not that long ago, perhaps 4 months. Also it is not affected by updating/changing software is it?

                Took the top of that motor/gearbox and there have been no perforations through the top case. Cleaned the grease out can't find any fragments. I have carer time tomorrow so I guess the next step is to pull the motor off. Any tips for how I should be trying to isolate the problem?

                Cheers

                Comment


                  Originally posted by takenaback View Post
                  It's not the wrong length mounting bolt in fact I can't be absolutely sure it is the gearbox itself or the motor but first it started labouring in reverse, sometimes working sometimes not and this went on for a while before it started grabbing going forwards. This would pull the ZX1 sideways as you can imagine. I haven't pulled it apart but I just suspected it was a gear grabbing but it could be the motor itself. The longer mounting bolts were installed correctly when I swapped the motors over. It was the initial one installed by Spinergy. Maybe if I am bored I will take it apart to inspect.
                  Now that I've reread this again it doesn't sound as though you had gearbox or motor issue at all. It sounds more like a rear caster or fork obstruction. It's possible you could have bent your fork stem and is causing the rear caster to hit either a motor or the bottom of the actuator. The Frogleg fork stems are hollow and can bend easily if you back into something hard. A misplaced motor cable can also keep the frogleg fork from rotating. A few other things can cause this, if the rear caster is mounted on the lowest hole of the fork it will probably hit. If you replaced the aluminum spacer that Spinergy puts in the frogleg with a polymer that is to soft. This will cause the fork to flex too much and hit the things I mentioned. All these things will cause the problem you described. These happen only in reverse.
                  pat@beachmobility.com

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by pattherat View Post
                    Nice Mac, Let me know how they work out. This size battery is very temperamental so you have to be vigilant on care and maintenance. They don't like to be fully depleted and definitely don't leave them in that state for very long or you will lose range quickly. Plug them into the charger as soon as you can after every use and leave them on the charger overnight even if the light turns green and they might last a year without much range loss. I usually end up replace mine every 6 months, I figure its like spending $10 a month on fuel for my main means of mobility. Money well spent.

                    I find 15ah are plenty enough for me on most days and I'm pretty active. If you want more range theoretically you could add to 12v 5ah batteries in parallel with the others and mount them directly behind the original 12v 15ah. This would give you 20ah. I modified the cover on a second ZX1 and installed 22 ah batteries that I use when think I might need the extra range and have yet to get into the red on those.

                    12v 5ah:

                    Pat you're right, the batteries rock. Got much more distance from them, ran them down half way but only plugged them in for 8 hours.
                    I'll run them down 3 more times half way and see if they hold charge,
                    thanks again
                    C5/C6 Complete since 08/22/09

                    Comment


                      Mac which batteries are you talking about? The UB1250 or the Vmax??

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
                        Mac which batteries are you talking about? The UB1250 or the Vmax??
                        no, these that Pat mentioned vmax http://www.ebay.com/itm/301061081949?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                        Last edited by Mac85; 2 Aug 2015, 10:19 PM.
                        C5/C6 Complete since 08/22/09

                        Comment


                          It's the motor but I'm not going to pay have it rewound. Separated the gearbox from the motor, plugged it into the ZX1 and it spun one way but not the other.

                          Comment


                            Good to hear Mac!
                            pat@beachmobility.com

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by takenaback View Post
                              It's the motor but I'm not going to pay have it rewound. Separated the gearbox from the motor, plugged it into the ZX1 and it spun one way but not the other.
                              Well that's a first for me, I have no idea what would cause that. Sounds like a good question for burgerman.
                              pat@beachmobility.com

                              Comment


                                Where have you guys found good prices on ZX-1 replacement batteries online? I've found inexpensive lead acid varieties, but the Lithium batteries are pricey. From what I've read, we need 12v 15ah--but how much larger is it safe to go? I need to roam about 5 miles a day.

                                Would these be a good solution?
                                http://www.electricrider.com/Lightweight-Lithium-Manganese-12V-15AH-Battery-p/lim1215-22.htm
                                Last edited by Saorsa; 8 Aug 2015, 3:03 PM.
                                "I'm lost. I'm no guide, but I'm by your side." - Pearl Jam

                                "It decomposes, mendicant, therefore, truly, one calls this the world." -- Loka Sutta

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