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  • Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    ...clip... The controller feels warm when this starts happening the computer is cool to the touch. ...clip...
    You probably clued this out at the very start. The warm controller is likely at fault and may or may not be damaged. The unknown is that the computer might be causing it to overheat.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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    • Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
      I did the battery test. It doesn't look like it's the batteries. I've sent the results to Pat also. I m so glad I got mine from him. 4 Years later and he still is right there when needed.

      I tested the batteries by placing the armrest facing towards the ground and skidding one tire at the lowest speed setting.

      Left Batt. pretest: 13.4v Underload: 12.3V Post: 13.3v
      Right 13.3v 12.7 13.3
      Both 26.5 24.5 26.5

      This is not a new challenge; it's just getting worse.
      Well, those voltage readings in that condition indicate the batteries are fine, charger is connecting and charging, and there is no short in the controller system (in normal use) - that's good.

      You said the controller (by which you mean the joystick and buttons is getting hot. The controller/computer will often get hot when under heavy use (hence the alloy boy with cooling fins) but the joystick control unit has very little inside to generate heat so that would seem to be the problem. Heat is created by energy loss and transfer and with not MOSFETs or voltage converters in the joystick it shouldn't get hot. The joystick is all low voltage (except for through wires when charging) so there must be a circuit or the joystick generating heat, which is not good, and likely to get worse, then fail. Better to get a new Joystick before you possibly blow the VR2+ Controller/computer, which by memory, is much more expensive. Just ensure you get the correct model from the model number that should be on it or your controller, as there are different VR2+ joystick models for 1 or two power functions and lights and I don't know of what is compatible.

      Best of luck.

      My ZX-1 is now operating nicely, after program update and profile reprogram. I went for about a 4km 'run' today on not fully topped off Lithiums (on purpose) as wanting to get down to low battery to test the low power crawl feature. Steep gutters, long steep roads, steep ramps (especially the car ferry over to an island), road running, gravel, rough grass, etc and no violent shut downs and battery still showing full amber lights when I got home, that recovered with rest time to full green voltage. Much happier now with the system and drivability greatly improved with lots of speed profile tweaks.
      Just love inventing stuff.

      Comment


      • Thanks guys, I'll try the joystick first. Will it have to be reprogrammed or is that in the module? the joystick doesn't get hot but definitely warmer.

        Wow, that's some ride t come home with all green lights.I don't care what it costs; I want it trouble free again. Perhaps it's time to look at upgrading since I'll be spending some bucks on it anyway.

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        • Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
          Thanks guys, I'll try the joystick first. Will it have to be reprogrammed or is that in the module? the joystick doesn't get hot but definitely warmer.

          Wow, that's some ride t come home with all green lights.I don't care what it costs; I want it trouble free again. Perhaps it's time to look at upgrading since I'll be spending some bucks on it anyway.
          All great advise from cool but before you buy a new joystick check that all the battery connections are tight. Not only the two that go to the controller but the other two that connect through the 50 amp breaker. And not only where the wire connectors attach to the terminals but also the crimp on the connectors. So that's 4 connections to battery terminals, 2 connections to the breaker and then there's where the wires connect to the plug that plugs into the controller, so 8 total. I also think you should repeat the test with the ZX1 facing a big obstruction, like a wall or large curb and run it at full speed breifly. I don't think you put much of a load on the batteries the way you described.
          pat@beachmobility.com

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          • I took the ZX, freshly charged to the workshop and did the skid test
            full . R 14.9v L 15.1 Both 30.1v
            Under load 13.8 13.8 27.

            I then took it up and down loose gravel til the lights started to drop and go into crawl mode, approx.250ft. By the time I got to my cement, 50ft., the lights had gone from full to the second red flashing light.
            L: 14.5 R 14.5

            I tested the batteries again; the lights were back up to full. I attached it to take inside. It was still in crawl mode with all lights dimming when throttle was pushed. By the time I got to the house, 30 ft. it was already down to the 2nd red light. I detached and shut off the machine to test the batteries. When turned back on they were all lit but I watched as they dropped back to the one light in approx. 90seconds. The lights would dim when throttle was pushed forward.
            L 13.2 R 13.3 Both 30.8

            Batteries are UBI 12v x 15a I checked for loose connections before the test.




            :
            Last edited by Patrick Madsen; 07-19-2015, 05:41 PM.

            Comment


            • Those voltage readings are somehow all too high for AGM batteries.

              Resting State of Charge (SOC) - (measured off charger for at least 10 minutes) should be more like below for an AGM battery. Only during charge would voltages from >13 to 14.4V be seen at battery terminals.

              Another graphic of AGM SOC from another sources too.
              Click image for larger version

Name:	12-v-Battery-State-Of-Charge-website.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	26.9 KB
ID:	2658854

              So, I doubt your Voltmeter is correct, sorry.
              Just love inventing stuff.

              Comment


              • Thanks, will see if I can borrow the neighbors or perhaps I had it on the wrong setting. Will try again. I doubt it's the batteries cause of the dimming of the lights once it goes into crawl. I'm not familiar with the term AGM battery.
                These are SLA batteries.

                Comment


                • Yeah, those voltages looked kinda odd. I may have given Patrick bad advise a while back and lead him to one of those cheap pocket radio slop meters. I thought they worked until I started getting bad readings myself and stopped using them.
                  I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

                  Comment


                  • LOL, it is one of those cheap meters. Next door neighbor has a couple of good ones I can borrow.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
                      LOL, it is one of those cheap meters. Next door neighbor has a couple of good ones I can borrow.
                      They just don't work in that voltage range. It cost me a lot of frustration until I tried out a good meter and found out.
                      Pat mentioned crimp connections. Those are classic trouble spots. Take a look at them, give them a squeeze maybe if doable.
                      I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

                      Comment


                      • AGM is Adsorbed Glass Matt where each lead plate of a SLA battery is prevented from touching by a layer of usually fibreglass matt. Your SLA battery would most likely be an AGM.

                        For the crimps you need to pull off and push on a couple of times to rub off any corrosion or oxidisation. If any crimp is loose they can be carefully squeezed with pliers (just be careful not too tight), but problems there would create hot terminals, not at the electronic components. Heat usually means high current, poor connections/dry joints, or faulty components.

                        I use cheap ebay Voltmeters, both analogue and digital and have not had any problems but your readings are too high.
                        Just love inventing stuff.

                        Comment


                        • Thanks for the explanation Cool. I borrowed my neighbors better meter and got the following readings:

                          I took the ZX, freshly charged to the workshop and did the load test by placing the unit against a wall and skidding the tires at full throttle.
                          Preload Right Batt, 13.21v Left 13.19V Both 26.4V
                          Under load 12.02V 11.99V 23.5V
                          Post load 13.13V 13.12V

                          I then took it up and down loose gravel til the lights started to drop and go into crawl mode, approx.150ft.. By the time I got to my cement, 50ft., the lights on the joystick had gone from full to the second red flashing light.
                          Left 12.83V Right 11.84 Both 25.4

                          I tested the batteries again; the lights were back up to full. I attached it to take inside. It was still in crawl mode with all lights dimming when throttle was pushed. By the time I got to the house, 30 ft. it was already down to the 2nd red light. I detached and shut off the machine to test the batteries. When turned back on they were all lit but I watched as they dropped back to the one light in approx. 90seconds. The lights would dim when throttle was pushed forward.
                          L 12.83 R 12.12.80 Both 25.6

                          I turned on the machine; all the lights on the joystick were off, meaning the batteries should have been drained: Left: 12.78V Right: 12.68 Both: 25.6

                          I've recharged the batteries and left the machine turned on to see if there would be a battery drop; so far after 5 hours, there hasn't been a change in the lights dropping.

                          Tomorrow, I'll clean the connections and spray some contact cleaner on them. Thanks guys, I appreciate your taking the time to hash this out.

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                          • bump

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
                              bump
                              I was waiting for someone who owns a ZX1 to comment.
                              The numbers seem okay, but there is a rebound effect.
                              Why don't you stop spinning wheels for a moment and see Interstate if you have one up there or AutoZone can load test these for you? I'd trust Interstate if you can get in there, but that's probably Bellingham.
                              I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

                              Comment


                              • Thanks Noise. I really doubt it's the batteries as this problem has gone on for at least two years and two battery changes. It's just gotten worse. I'm ready to give up on it and just continue to use it for trips to the workshop and back.

                                I may take it down to the Lions wheelchair warehouse. They have an electronics guy there who just works on power chairs. Thing is I don't want to take it anywhere only to have it stop 150 feet or so out of my van.

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