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  • New TR3

    I'm finalizing the order form for my TiLite TR3, it will be my first TiLite.
    I have read tons of useful posts but I have still few doubts.

    I am a big guy: 6'4 and 240 lbs, T1 para using a Jay Deep Contour cushion so I need a high backrest.
    TR3 will replace my current Progeo Joker that worked well for me except that I broke several times the backrest tubes (first in alu, then in titanium and finally OK titanium with steel inner tube) and finally the frame tube broke at the point of pressure of the backrest.

    This lead my main design decisions: a reinforced box frame, a fixed backrest and same measures as my current chair.
    Here is the CAD drawing and a picture comparing of the two chairs using overlays.

    I tested that I could still take my chair into my car without folding the backrest.

    The CAD drawing shows a tapered front but I decided to change for a V-front because that's what I have on the Joker and I'm afraid the tapered front could annoy when I transfer to high car seat.

    I'm still in doubt about:
    - footrest width: I'm using a FreeWheel so with tapered front I selected 11" but for V-front I hesitate between 11"5 and 12".
    - seat width: my current seat is 15"35 and it's tight with very rigid side guards so I hesitate to take 15" and adjusting on side guards or take 16". The problem is that I never had a backrest of 16", I should probably test one first.

    The CAD drawing shows an overall width of 21.6 +/- 0.375, this is less than my Joker, does it include the pushrims?
    Last edited by Big; 12-09-2012, 07:01 PM.
    My TR3

  • #2
    Originally posted by Big View Post
    The CAD drawing shows an overall width of 21.6 +/- 0.375, this is less than my Joker, does it include the pushrims?
    It looks like it might include them. The dimension lines extend well beyond the "treaded tire"
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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    • #3
      Big - I'm 6’2” / size 11 shoe. My 11” V front width works fine running a FreeWheel.

      IF you’ll be regularly changing your footrest height along with seat height, a tapered front (straight up and down) adjusts easier than a V front, where tube angles introduce a friction component, which equals more arm wrestling and less range.

      Right, the CAD overall width includes the tabbed push rims, short or long per your specs.
      Last edited by nofuss; 12-04-2012, 04:35 PM. Reason: rim dimension

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      • #4
        Thanks nofuss, same shoe size so it'll be fine.
        I don't plan to change my footrest height.
        My legs are not skinny so a tapered front could cause friction at mid height and also I'm afraid my legs could get somehow blocked when transferring high and far into some cars.

        I have also requested caster pin locks (for table tennis mainly but also useful for transfers), a friend of mine got them for a ZR but it seems that TiLite is taking time to answer about how much it will cost, at least that's what the French rep said.
        Last edited by Big; 12-04-2012, 03:03 PM.
        My TR3

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        • #5
          My legs tend to fall when going up curbs or when I relax.
          I think it's because my frame is not deep enough, so I am now considering adding 1'' of custom seat depth and also increasing front angle from 75 to 80.
          The overall length of the chair should not vary too much.
          My TR3

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          • #6
            Here is a picture of my legs which may explain the need for longer frame and 80° angle.
            My TR3

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            • #7
              Text delete-I misread the post
              C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

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              • #8
                Thanks Ashleigh, that's probably wiser, especially in winter when wearing a padded jacket.
                Also, yesterday I tried e-motion wheels on a 17" wide chair and it did not seem that huge for my back, so 16" should be fine.
                My TR3

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Brianm View Post
                  Going from 75 to 80 would decrease the length of your chair, as 80 degrees is tighter where 75 is more extended.
                  Right Brian but at the same I'm increasing the seat depth by 1" so I thought it should compensate.
                  On the photo I put, I think my legs are correctly positioned almost vertical so I'd like to keep this position while having more "metal" at the top of my legs.

                  OK, I was too fast to reply, now you deleted your post, so I guess we agree
                  My TR3

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                  • #10
                    Given your that you're 6' 4" I was wondering why you've opted for 24" wheels. I would think that would put you at a mechanical disadvantage for getting as strong a wheel stroke/push as possible. I'm (only) 5' 9" and I use a 25" wheel. I would think that a 25" (or even a 26" wheel) would be a big improvement for you.
                    stephen@bike-on.com

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                    • #11
                      Good point.
                      I have been thinking to 25" wheels for a long time and even had ones 20 years ago on my basket ball chair but for a daily chair I tend to think that the wheel may get too much in the way when transferring from lower positions.
                      Though I did not try.
                      My TR3

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                      • #12
                        Now that I'm looking at my photo, I can see that my fixed aluminium side guard is at the position of a 25" wheel. As I plan to have removable side guards, having 25" wheels might work.
                        My TR3

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Big View Post
                          Good point.
                          I have been thinking to 25" wheels for a long time and had ones 20 years ago when I played BB but I was thinking that the wheel may get too much in the way when transferring from lower positions.
                          Without observing how you do your transfers, I'm not sure why wheel height would make your transfers any easier or more difficult. I don't transfer over my wheels. When transferring, my chair is positioned at an angle, which takes the wheels largely out of the equation regardless of their height.

                          Note that a 25" wheel adds only 0.5" (the radius) to the height, so the difference is not that dramatic, but you'll have more wheel (actually, push rim) to work with, which will make your push more efficient.
                          stephen@bike-on.com

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                          • #14
                            Regarding transfers, I do them differently depending on the difficulty (height, space around, etc...) but there's a case where having larger wheels might even help me: when getting into a high car I tend to sit on the wheel to get as close as possible to the car seat.
                            Regarding efficient push, I must admit that I use both rims and wheels; for this chair I want to have Surge rims to push only on rim, so 25" wheels may help too.
                            My TR3

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Big View Post
                              My legs tend to fall when going up curbs or when I relax.



                              Judging from your picture, I would say that your seat-to-footrest length, with that cushion, is too great. You need to raise your footrest so that there is more weight on your feet. This will help keep your feet/legs from slipping off.

                              I had the same problem until I made this adjustment. When you get your new chair from TiLite you will also get two 3M self-sticking anti-skid pads to use on your footplate.

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